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Padme Episode II travel/refugee gown
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Furiafelina (Ineabelle Rodriguez)
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Naergi wrote:
GentleBant wrote:
I've been playing with it on a horizontal repeat, so that the center design stays whole. To my eye, it looks like the skirt is in four panels: front and rear, and the two sides.


No, there are center back and front, top front and back side, and front and back skirt sides; making it six pieces (for just the skirt you would be right with four pieces; but since the skirt isn't separate from the top part of that dress, it's six per side).
Then again, if I would cut the 'front and back skirt sides' on the fold of that 'inverted eagle' motif, that would only be one piece too; but since I try to save on fabric (doing so would 'cost' another three yards of fabric!), I have to cut them on my second 'inverted eagle' motif stripe close to the selvage and sew the two resulting pieces (front and back side) together.

Look at this (and click to enlarge!). Two versions of the same promo pic - left (obviously!) not edited; right shows the placement of the seams.
You can see on the 'not edited' side how the pattern of the roses embroidery is basically 'split apart' by those seams. Same on the back, by the way.



Quote:
Is the "bubble" pattern what you're going to use for the sleeves?


Yes. I could buy some 'bubble' fabric and try to dye it to the correct base color of the printed fabric, but I guess with the printed fake embroidery, printed (and already color-matched!) bubbles will work best.


What a sharp eye!!!! I didn't see this!! GOOD JOB!!!
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Naergi ()
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My swatches have arrived! *does a happy dance*

Here are some photos, plus explanations as to what they show.

I think I already mentioned it, but I had compiled all my designs (dress, cloak, short cape and sleeves / cowl) into one design picture, then had that picture printed on Cotton Poplin, Crepe de Chine, Cotton Silk and Organic Cotton Sateen; just to be able to compare of how the outcome of a print of the very same design would be on those different materials without having to order each design as four swatches (which would have resulted in 16 swatches!).
Each swatch is 8x8 inches large, by the way; in case you're wondering.
Also, by now I've adjusted the color of the 'cloak' fabric on Spoonflower - the swatches still show it as a dark magenta /red /purple; I've changed it to the more true-to-original color of dark navy blue - but the swatches still show it as the reddish color.
Click the images to enlarge:



Comparing the sheen of (clockwise, starting top left):
Cotton Poplin-Crepe de Chine - Cotton Silk - Organic Cotton Sateen



Another sheen- and drape comparison. Clockwise (starting top left):
Cotton Poplin-Crepe de Chine - Cotton Silk - Organic Cotton Sateen



Comparing the opacity / sheerness of the fabrics; laid out over a piece of other swatches.
Clockwise, starting top left:
Organic Cotton Sateen - Crepe de Chine - Cotton Poplin - Cotton Silk


This photo shows the actual colors best (at least on my monitor!):

Comparing opacity / sheerness of the fabrics; this time laid out over Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion".
Clockwise, starting top left:
Crepe de Chine - Cotton Silk -Cotton Poplin - Organic Cotton Sateen



Another comparison of (clockwise, starting top left:) Exhibit picture of the original dress; official picture of the original dress and, last not least, a photo of my reprint on the Organic Cotton Sateen fabric.</td>



Last not least, a closeup of the Organic Cotton Sateen - this is what I'll definitely use for the dress. Not only do the colors print brilliantly, but also the drape is perfect, and the fabric is not as sheer as, for example, the cotton silk.
For the sleeves and cowl, however, I will use the Crepe de Chine, since the drape and sheen of that material is perfect for those items.
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Mara Skywalker (Anna)
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks absolutely beautiful!
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Naergi ()
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the designs printed really great; but the colors at which they're printed depend (a lot!) on which fabric they are printed on.

You can see in some of the photos that the colors didn't print the same way on the different types of fabric.
For example, the print on Crepe de Chine is way more desaturated than the print on cotton sateen; even if it's the very same design that was printed on both. And the print on Cotton Silk, at least for the 'red' shades, turned out a good bit darker than on the sateen - again, very same design picture printed on ALL the swatches.

I'm glad though that the designs printed best on the cotton sateen (which is what I was hoping for!). After all that fabric is widest and will therefore allow me to get away with just using four yards of the 'base' dress fabric; and I'm considerably tall (5'7'' without heels). Another 2 yards for the sleeves / cowl 'bubbles' fabric and one yard of the medaillon 'cape / sleeve cuffs' fabric, and I'm good to go.
Now I just need to save up for those yardages, after I've gotten all the materials for my Red Invasion gown :-)

In case anyone would like the link to the fabrics on Spoonflower for their own travel dress, send me a message. I'm unsure whether it's okay to post that link here Embarassed
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Roxana Aleera (Chelsea Branson)
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fabric looks wonderful! I have always loved this dress but never been brave enough to attempt it so bravo to you! I cannot wait to see the progress
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JediDWH (Lisa Curtis)
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found it myself with clever use of search terms. Wink It looks great! I have no intention of ever making this dress, but you did a beautiful job with the fabric, to the point where I am staring at it real hard and knowing exactly what everyday-life pattern I'd use it for. *coughs* Uhh... nerds are us?
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Naergi ()
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you all so much for the nice compliments!
After all, I "just" made a reproduction of an already existing fabric; though that is sometimes even harder than coming up with a design of your own).

JediDWH wrote:
I found it myself with clever use of search terms. Wink

Yes, that, too, is possible Wink

Quote:
I have no intention of ever making this dress, but you did a beautiful job with the fabric, to the point where I am staring at it real hard and knowing exactly what everyday-life pattern I'd use it for. *coughs* Uhh... nerds are us?


Oh I know that feeling.
There's a certain fabric (which I also reproduced) that was used on the walls of Marie Antoinette's bedroom in Versailles, which I've stared at hard enough to basically know that eventually, I'd like it for curtains and chair covers in my dining room.
Also, I've made a very own fabric design with stylized versions of Amidala's headdresses, which I'm eventually planning to make kitchen curtains from Rolling Eyes

By the way - I already wrote that to someone who asked for the link; but thought that it couldn't hurt to repeat it here:

I do recommend to order at least one swatch of the material quality you are planning to order in advance. Just because *I* think that Cotton Sateen (for the base dress, cape and cloak) / Crepe de Chine (sleeves / cowl) will be perfect... other people may have different opinions; and I don't want to have people complaining that I recommended the wrong kind of fabric.

Also, if you order and get the fabric... please... the first thing you do, iron it HOT from the wrong side; after that, iron hot again from the right side.
That is a tip I got from the Spoonflower Flickr discussion group; apparently it helps to bond the inks that are used for printing to the fabric even more.
The difference between dyeing and printing fabrics is obvious; when dyeing, the pigments will penetrate the fibers and bond to them, but when printing, the pigments are just bonded to the surface of the threads and therefore can't bond as good as dyeing pigments.

Last not least... DRY CLEAN ONLY. I usually don't recommend this since I strongly believe in careful washing; but *some* (not all, just a few!) Spoonflower fabric buyers have experienced some of the ink "rubbing off" during the washing; which doesn't happen at all when dry-cleaning.
Then again I don't know how MUCH fabric they had in their washing machines, or if they had a bad batch (in which case Spoonflower, when asked, DOES send replacements!), or which detergent they used to wash the fabric (Spoonflower recommends to wash the fabrics with phosphate-free detergents only(!!!)).

Why am I writing all this?
One of my customers bought 2 yards of one of my other (non-Travel) fabrics, then, after receiving it, immediately put it into a full washing machine with other fabrics (!), used "regular washing powder for colored fabrics" (which does contain phosphates!), and then wondered why the fabric came out of that washing machine being "dark gray with lighter gray streaks" (note that the design was mostly black when she received it).
Of course she could have asked me or the Spoonflower helpdesk in advance. Of course she could have just read Spoonflower's recommendations for cleaning the fabric. Of course she could have just googled (which would have brought up some of the discussions about washing the fabrics!). But no, she didn't do any of this and just happily washed ahead, ruining her fabric in the process.

So I thought that I should mention all these things to others, so I can prevent bad things from happening that I already know about ;-)


On a side note, I still wish I could do a color-edited version of the dress (i. e. *blue* opposed to *yellow* background!), since yellow usually doesn't work with my complexion... at all!), and STILL have it being accepted as formal. The color change on the fabric design wouldn't be a problem *at all*, but I believe the acceptance by the RL would be.
A colorchanged version would put this dress on #1 of my to-do lists; but since it's "just" yellow... it's not as high up in my list of priorities as it could be. I'm sure some of you will be able to relate.
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GentleBant ()
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to hear the fabrics turned out!

One thing I've been weighing is the balance of yellow-ness to the green you're using.

To my eye, and on my monitor, the green in your fabric appears to be more apple/lime green (i.e., a green more on the yellow end of the spectrum.)

From what I remember seeing at the FIDM exhibit and in reference pics, it looks more sage/bluish to me.

Here's a side-by-side of what I mean:


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Naergi ()
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GentleBant wrote:
Glad to hear the fabrics turned out!

One thing I've been weighing is the balance of yellow-ness to the green you're using.

To my eye, and on my monitor, the green in your fabric appears to be more apple/lime green (i.e., a green more on the yellow end of the spectrum.)

From what I remember seeing at the FIDM exhibit and in reference pics, it looks more sage/bluish to me.

Here's a side-by-side of what I mean:



The problem really isn't the green. If you look at the picture which I said to show the colors best and compare that to the image of the original costume - like this - particularly on the 'leaves' of the roses:



you'll see that not the green is the problem (granted, it's a bit prominent in the satin "stitch" borders of the 'cross stripe'; but that 'thread color' of the mock embroidery matches the very tiny 'crewel' embroidery green; so...), but the red/purplish color of the 'roses' is; because it's a good bit too light and reddish when it should be almost brownish (meaning a tad darker and desaturated).

Thank you for pointing it out! Four eyes are always better than just two; and I must admit that I occasionally oversee things.
I'm going to work on a solution to that problem (which should be possible to do without problems; it's just a matter of desaturating / darkening / slightly color shifting just the 'magenta' pixels in the design), and upload revisions of the designs (because this change also has to be done on the 'medaillons' design...) as soon as possible.
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Naergi ()
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Done.
This should do the trick (click to enlarge because the board's image resizing makes the picture look fuzzy and weird):



I'm uploading the revisions right now.
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GentleBant ()
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, preparing to order swatches but wanted to confirm: Are the ones on the original spoonflower link the updated ones?
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Naergi ()
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GentleBant wrote:
OK, preparing to order swatches but wanted to confirm: Are the ones on the original spoonflower link the updated ones?

Yes they are. That's what I meant when I wrote "I'm uploading the revisions right now." - if I had uploaded them as 'new' designs, they wouldn't be revisions but, well, new designs; correct?`;-)
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just making sure! Swatches ordered. Now to wait a month or so...
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GentleBant ()
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JediDWH wrote:
I found it myself with clever use of search terms. Wink It looks great! I have no intention of ever making this dress, but you did a beautiful job with the fabric, to the point where I am staring at it real hard and knowing exactly what everyday-life pattern I'd use it for. *coughs* Uhh... nerds are us?


May I ask what pattern you refer to? Smile
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Naergi ()
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GentleBant wrote:
JediDWH wrote:
I found it myself with clever use of search terms. Wink It looks great! I have no intention of ever making this dress, but you did a beautiful job with the fabric, to the point where I am staring at it real hard and knowing exactly what everyday-life pattern I'd use it for. *coughs* Uhh... nerds are us?


May I ask what pattern you refer to? Smile


I already know but won't tell Razz

BTW, Spoonflower is pretty fast by now. My last order was shipped within just two days (note that I've had to wait up to TWELVE days until an order was shipped before!).
Of course... the time until it arrives in Europe is an entirely different cup of cake... but within the US, it's pretty quick, or that's at least what I heard.
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