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General Rahm Kota v2
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, sounds unpleasant with the disintegration accident! Shocked I hope your hand is okay after that.
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Koda Vonnor (BillCostigan)
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 11:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got it under soap & water within 30sec. I was like wtf, grabbed a quart plastic mixing cup off the shelf and dropped the leaking tube in it, then ran for the sink. The sides of my fingers itched for a bit afterwards, but seem ok now.
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Koda Vonnor (BillCostigan)
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was wondering why the surfaces of the plates were still sticky after 3 days. I used about 60/40 mix of Bondo/poly-resin to coat the outsides and insides. The insides really need to be smooth and dry so as not to bind up on the shirt during pronation/rotation.

According to google, the resin you can buy at Home Depot is what they call laminating resin, and contains an air inhibitor that keeps the surface tacky so that subsequent layers of laminate (glass cloth in my case) will adhere more easily. Bondo does not have that property, and normally you'd apply the final spread of full Bondo, like in auto body work. The Bondo keeps air from reaching the resin below, so the resin cures fully. My surfaces are still tacky because I used a resin/Bondo mix.

There was a lot of advice on how to remedy the situation, and the quickest solution was to use an epoxy finish coat. I got some Z-Poxy from a local RC model shop and will see how that works.

More later.

~ Vonnor
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Koda Vonnor (BillCostigan)
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the Z-Poxy (Zee-Proxy I call it Mr. Green) on the insides of the plates, and they cured very hard and shiny. A little 320grit should keep them from sticking to the shirt fabric. I chose not to use the stuff on the outsides, because after I sanded the surfaces with wet220 they lost all the stickiness. They did have a lot of surface ripples though, so I spread a thin rondo (25/75 resin/bondo) correction coat and after it set up I wrapped the somewhat sticky surfaces with plastic wrap. One of the google'ations suggested that. It' keeps the air from getting to the air-inhibited resin and lets it set up completely. We'll see if it works.

I also poured the production hand guards this morning. Here are the rough pulls using the mold bottoms as forms while they fully cure. The plastic-wrapped vambrace plates are in the BG. I'll hit them with the mouse sander at the Garrison Tyranus armor party this Sunday.




Stay tuned.

~ Vonnor
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Anakin Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks great and looks like you are moving forward
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Arie Tov (Christian Ariel Tovar)
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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Incredible, their work is always wonderful and really appreciate all the explanations of the process is something that is very enjoyable.
As we say in my country: ¡¡¡sos un capo!!!
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Koda Vonnor (BillCostigan)
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After sanding down the Bondo correction coat, I added the axial edge stripping. The radial edging will not go on until after the wrist-clip sculpt. I jigged it up with some temporary spacers and center-line markers, then cut the strap slots semi-freehand with a Dremel dental bit. I did use a metal guide that I clamped to the work piece, and just ran the spinning shaft up against the guide as I cut the initial slots. It took a few hours just to widen and angle the slots to receive the straps. The slots still need to be about a millimeter thicker to get 3mm straps into them. Using the cutting guide and taking it slow on the slot widening really came out a lot cleaner than the first attempt. I'm going to sculpt the wrist clip on the left arm, as the symmetry came out much better than the right.

One interesting thing I stumbled upon as I practiced free-hand Dremelling on a previous failed vambrace plate: I might cut the straps out of the junk hard models. The contour curve is about perfect and the 4-layer laminate allows a bit of flex. Using the polyester resin to bond them will make a ultra-durable production piece. The only challenge will be insuring uniform strap thickness.

I also noticed after taking the hi-rez close-ups below, that my cut corners were not so sharp. I have since rectified the situation. You super-observant folks will notice how many layers of cloth were used in the laminate.

Next up, straps, elbow guard and forearm plate. The closure design is slicker than the TFU version, and just as hidden. You don't wanna miss that. Cool








~ Vonnor
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Koda Vonnor (BillCostigan)
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 2:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No new progress, just trying out my new Canon EOS Rebel T3i digital SLR. It gets the color right much better than the old 6.2Mpx one. Very Happy

I will be away from the project for the next few weeks due to unforeseen circumstances. I hope now to have it completed by NYCC in October.

I'll be back to this as soon as I can.






~ Vonnor
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Koda Vonnor (BillCostigan)
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally got back to this after 3 months off. Today I marked and cut the strap slots in the right radius and ulna plates. It took almost 3 hours to Dremel them and hand-taper the openings. Tomorrow I will cut two sets of straps from Sintra and thermo-form them to fit the slots. Time permitting I will take rubber molds of them.

After much study, I decided to make the production straps from 4-5 layer cloth fiberglass and bond the straps to the side plates with polyester resin. That will make them solid units on the palm side and I won't have to worry about tension or alignment issues while worn.

I also fit the right plates back onto the sculpting form to check fit and contours. It looks decent. Note the extent lines on the plaster arm, I'll have to trim some off the elbow and wrist ends of the plates which I anticipated. That's why I left the edge trim off the ends for now.





~ Vonnor
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SithariRog (Roger Allen)
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I LOVE seeing progress threads. Keep up the good work, Bill. I'm learning all kinds of stuff!
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Koda Vonnor (BillCostigan)
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 1:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

roger roger.

Cool
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Koda Vonnor (BillCostigan)
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 12:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cut and thermo-formed the straps for the left gauntlet. They are 3mm Sintra and I used the ductwork mandrel in the background to form the initial curvature. I then stuck one end of a strap at a time into its corresponding slot and manually heat-bent it flat against the curve of the main halves. I did this very slowly so as not to distort the overall curvature. My goal here was to make the strap masters with uniform overall curvature and the little hook bends as they go into the slots. I will take a plaster-backed rubber mold of these and cast them in 5 layer cloth fiberglass for strength with rondo coat on the facing surface. They will be bonded to the main sections with poly-resin and a pinch of Bondo thickener. Going by past experience they should have a slight flex, enough to get them on and off my arm.

More to come.





~ Vonnor
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Koda Vonnor (BillCostigan)
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took those strap models and squared up the edges, smoothed the curves and finish-sanded all surfaces. I then super-glued them to a 110lb card-stock backing and sprayed a clear-coat over it all. I built up some layers of Rebound-40 silicone rubber taking care to taper away the undercuts at the ends. I could have used Rebound-25 but this was what I had on hand. It's pretty stiff if you never used it before. Since it's a junk mold for the most part (unless I mess up something) it should do fine. I undercut the side edges of the rubber wrappers a bit so they would hold better in the plaster backing. I hot-glued a box around it and poured in some plaster. Have to wait for warmer weather to lay in the fiberglass, but I'm liking how smooth the curves and surfaces came out.

More later.







~ Vonnor
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Koda Vonnor (BillCostigan)
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I cast the left gauntlet cross straps in fiberglass. No real issues, just had to use a lot more hardener in both the Bondo and the polyester resin since the temperature was about 65°F.

One thing new that I tried was some Bondo glaze putty for the "gel-cote" layer. It's a lot smoother than rondo and spreads very nicely. I painted the insides of the molds with some of that first, then 5 layers of fiberglass cloth and a thick rondo (resin/bondo 25/75) backing coat. Still some pinhole bubbles in the surface but I can fill those. They have a stiff flex to them which will be perfect for opening the gauntlet to get my hand through.

Here is the rough breakout of the castings:



More to come.

~ Vonnor
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Koda Vonnor (BillCostigan)
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The weather was warm enough for fiberglassing today, so I shaped the straps and bonded them to the radius and ulna plates using polyester resin. They came out very solid with just enough flex to get my hand in. I still have a bit of cleaning up to do and gaps to fill but all-in-all I'm happy with the results. I tested the fit with a 6mm soft neoprene band between the armor and my skin. The scaling of the original sculpt turned out perfect. The armor squeezes the rubber which holds it from slipping down to my hand. Once the wrist-clip and the forearm plate get on there It'll be one solid unit. It was really great to finally be able to wear this thing. Very Happy

Next up is the gauntlet closure and wrist-clip sculpt.







~ Vonnor
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Last edited by Koda Vonnor (BillCostigan) on Fri Sep 20, 2013 8:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
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