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Ki-Adi Mundi saber blanks! Non-Profit Project
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Mastershane (Shane Gordon)
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this saber also the one used by Aayla Secura? It looks very much like one of her sabers. Many people think she has a diffrent one in E2 than E3.
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JaylinDakaal ()
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes. Aayla is pictured in different reference images with two different sabers, but this one is the style she is seen with in the movies and even in the 3D Cartoon.
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TridCloudwalker (Aaron A. Chernak)
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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now taking orders! See first post.
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TridCloudwalker (Aaron A. Chernak)
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a bump. Time to get your order in is almost up.
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TridCloudwalker (Aaron A. Chernak)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 3:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update in first post
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TridCloudwalker (Aaron A. Chernak)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another small update in first post
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TridCloudwalker (Aaron A. Chernak)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

***PAYMENTS DUE JULY 24th***

The sabers are under way and should be finished no later than July 27th. Payments are due by Friday July 24th. I apologize for the delay in the project, but there was a programming problem, but it has since been resolved.

Here are some progress pics:





Here the are before going into the machine:


And during:


Up close:




Compared next to an MR FX Maul (That's all I happened to have in my car):


And here's one in hand:
[/u]
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ardavenport (Anne Davenport)
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 3:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm just curious..... were you able to make the lightsabers hollow? They look solid in the pictures. They also look very nice, too. Smile
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TridCloudwalker (Aaron A. Chernak)
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They will be hollow. They're just solid in the photos because they haven't been bored out yet, nor have the little channels and other holes been milled into them yet. This is just the lathe work so far.
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TridCloudwalker (Aaron A. Chernak)
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 2:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Huge photo update. Since I have this thread on 6 different message boards, I'm only going to put the update in the original RPF thread. Please go there to read all the groovy news and see all the spiffy pictures. Here's the link: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=62731 Anyone can view the thread, but of course you'll need to be a member to reply in it. If you're not, feel free to make questions and comments here.
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TridCloudwalker (Aaron A. Chernak)
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a small update:

I haven't been able to get the time to drive down to the shop, but the machinist was nice enough to drive out to me while I was delivering the US Mail on his own time, and show me a corrected piece. As you can see, everything is now back to normal. The only other minor adjustment that will be made is that the taper shown by the red arrow will be made at a much subtler angle. It's nearly a 90 degree angle on the screen used, but there is a slight faint taper to it. Also a new correction you can see in this photo is that the bottom edge of the corrected thicker ring has been very slightly rounded off, as per the original, but leaves the top edge sharp.



He should have the small corrected replacement pieces done by this weekend, as well as finish the one piece bodies. Then he'll start on the mill work, which will hollow out the bodies, put in the channels, and drill/tap the holes for the knobs and LED bezel. The bezels are coming to me from Taiwan, and could take as long as 2 - 3 weeks to arrive, which is especially irritating because they can't tell me what the thread size on them is. So tapping that hole will be the last step taken in this run before shipping when I receive the bezels and can measure them. Unless someone here can speak/write fluent Taiwanese and ask these guys for the measurments or tech drawings or something.

The final pieces to be made, the pommel and emitter parts, will go fairly smoothly and quickly, as there is nothing too complicated about them. We've reached the hump, and now we're headed down toward the completion of this project. As nerve wracking as this has been at times, I can't wait to get started on the next saber!
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TridCloudwalker (Aaron A. Chernak)
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't been able to make it over to the shop to get pics (hopefully this weekend I can run over), but all the bodies have been bored out, and the threading added to the area the emitter will attach. He's currently cutting off the incorrect body tops, and machining the replacement pieces. He's hoping to have the pommels started by Sat or Sun.
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TridCloudwalker (Aaron A. Chernak)
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small update:

Ironically, only an hour after I told someone here it'd be two more weeks before I receive them, I received the LED bezels today. You'll be able to screw these right into the body. However, one of the reasons this is being called a saber blank thread is you'll need to do a little work yourself on this part. You'll need to yank out the red LED, and replace it with any clear lensed 5mm LED to make it screen accurate. Also, any of you who are planning on adding elecronics to your saber will have to either work around the bezel, or dremel a little off the bottom so it doesn't hang down into the electronics cavity.





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TridCloudwalker (Aaron A. Chernak)
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some more progress photos from the shop today. There's not much to show at the moment, as he's working on cutting off the inaccurate ends, and he still has a few more bodies to bore out.

All bored out:




The tool doing the boring (aka: The BIG freakin' Drill!)


Removing the inaccurate tops:



He's filled about three 55 gallon drums with the shavings from the boring. There's going to be a very happy scrap yard this week:



Here are some better shots of the accurate bodies:




I brought a sample shipping box over to make sure I ordered the correct size. The saber fits like a glove with just enough room for some bubble wrap:


And for fun, I sat one of the bezels on top of a body just to see how they looked together:


The 10 segment LED bar graphs should be arriving late this week. Upon closer inspection of photos of the screen used saber, it looks as though it's graph does in fact have the little notch in the corner like the ones I ordered do. So there, I accidentally ordered accurate graphs :lol This means that the only thing you'll need to do to them is sand down the bottoms about a 1/4 of an inch and paint the top grey. No promises, but if I can use someone's belt sander for an hour, I'll see if I can do the bottom removals. However, if anyone has plans on keeping the pins and such intact so they can wire up the graph and have it illuminated, let me know, and I'll be sure you get an unmodified one.
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TridCloudwalker (Aaron A. Chernak)
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greetings fellow saber lovers! Here's the latest info from my trip to the machine shop today.

All the bodies have been threaded to accept the pommels (which will be starting very soon). The sabers that had the innaccurate tops have all been given a haircut, and their insides have been threaded to accept the new tops (which should be finished by tomorrow morning).


Here's an amputee body, threaded and ready to go:


Here's an almost complete correct top. The subtle bevel still needs to go on the bottom of the curved section, and of course the correct thicker ring and threaded nub still need to be added to the bottom. You can't see it in this shot, but the 3/4" blade hole has also been added.


Which will go together and look somewhat like this-ish (archang, I know the ring appears to be too thick. it's not done yet. :lol):


Here are some more almost finished tops with their 3/4" blade holes...well...they're not 3/4" yet. Those are pilots that still need some more shaved out of them. Also, he's going to make the holes one one-thousandths of an inch larger than 3/4" to allow for imperfections in your extruded polycarbonate blades. It'll still fit very nice and snug, but you shouldn't have to worry about an invisble ripple preventing the blade from fitting into the hole at all. If it's still too snug for some reason, some light sanding on your blade will solve any issues. It's much easier to adjust a blade than an emitter.


One of the replacements tops in the machine. I snapped this shot right after the machine shut itself down to prevent overheating. It was easily a thousand degrees in that shop.


Since he had both computerized machines running stuff and had their programming steps maxed out, he used a good ole bench lathe to manually make the pilot holes in the emitters before going into the machines.


And here's a little shot of some of the hardcopy blueprints we're using. There are many many other pages of hand drawn modifcations, 3D CADS, printouts of screencaps and archival photos, etc.


Tomorrow he's taking one of the spare junk bodies that the machine royally messed up when we were trying to fix the ring problem to a friends shop who has a sand blaster and bead blaster set up. He's going to see what kind of finish he can get on this type of aluminum, and also some price quotes. So hopefully (keep your fingers crossed) having a matte body will be an option for anyone who wants one.

I'm also looking into trying to get a bulk order of real covertec knobs without the clips. More news on that later as it develops.
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