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Mask making with slacker

 
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SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 3:49 pm    Post subject: Mask making with slacker Reply with quote

Hey Matt,

When we where in Atlanta you and I had talked about the product called Slacker that Smooth- on makes. I did some more home work on it, and I like what I see. Unfortunatly it will not help me with my curant mask, but my next mask it will help a ton!

I decided to post it here so other wookie and other mask makers can take a peek at what it does and how it can help you! Like any of the products out there... I sugest trying it out as a test first before using it in bulk to get the right consistancy!

What is Slacker? Slacker is a Product that makes masks made out of Silicone ALOT More flexible for facial expresions or any anamitronics for that mater.

Dragon Skin is a product alot of movie masks are made from.

1 Dragon skin is a 1 to 1 ratio where Slacker is a product that is ment to modify Dragon skin in its liqued state. so depending on what consistance you are looking for you can mix it to dragonskin 1:1, or even 4:1 depending on what you are looking to do.
For best results on mask making I sugest using Dragon skin as a solid encapsulant to anything being used like Slacker... especially if you decide to hair punch.

Example:
1 layer of dragon skin
1 layer of Slacker/ dragon skin mix
1 layer of dragon skin ( repeat layering if more thickness is desired )

This layering of Slacker vs Dragon skin will give you the strongest mask with the best elasticity. Its important to have every mask end with a dragon skin layer only... for slacker can leave a residue if mixed more than 2:1


A good mix for the Slacker layers if a skin like feel is desired
1: Dragonskin A
1: Dragon skin B ( mix pigments in part b first )
3: Slacker Modifier

Down side for people who are using a hair puch technique and using Slacker. Slacker can weaken a mask strength if used to much so a 2:1 ( 2 parts slacker to 1 part dragon skin ) ration is recomended. Altering layers from slacker to Dragon skin will strengthen mask and allow for a better hair grab.

For masks with hair punching
1: Dragonskin A
1: Dragon skin B ( mix pigments in part b first )
2: Slacker Modifier


Static mask withough cuts or punctures
1: Dragonskin A
1: Dragon skin B ( mix pigments in part b first )
4: Slacker Modifier

This will give the middle layers of your mask a Squishy feel almost like poking a chubby cheak... the slacker layer acts like a jelly and gets pushed around easier.. going back into its natural state when done. I recomend using the dragon skin layers a little thicker for encapsulating this type of slacker layer.


http://www.smooth-on.com/index.php?cPath=2_1128_1116_1200

This should help yah get an idea of the basic use of Slacker for mask making... bit long with crappy music, but gets the info accross. The rest of the info posted I collected from thier tech support line.
http://www.smooth-on.com/


Bob
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duck
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds cool but I'm not sure I'd really need this, personally. I found the skin pretty stretchy as is for my needs ... of course, I might regret that after wearing my mask for several hours and my real jaw wants to fall off due to all the facial acting with the mask!
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SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What kind of latex are you using?
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duck
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dragon Skin Q. Seems pretty stretchy for my needs.
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SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, nothing wrong with that at all.

I Learned alot from making my mask:

1 Hinge may seem free and not binding, but when mask is on... the mask can bind if the hinge does not match the same flow of movement of your own jaw. I beleive it may be an angle thing.

2. My first attempt with Dragon skin was a bit to thin for hair punching and did not hold the hair well and ended up ripping under stress. Think I made it only 3 layers.

3. my second mask I made may be too thick. Holds hair great but with the hinge angle and the thickness of the mask... makes it a bit of a work out moving the mouth. This is where slacker would have been nice.

2 cents

Bob
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duck
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, since my mask is still in the testing stage, I won't really know what I've got ahead of me after hours of trooping, but I THINK it will be a decent compromise. I did varying thicknesses at different places. Like the forehead, eye area and way under the chin are sorta thin, the cheeks are average and the muzzle and nose is pretty thick.

Everything seems OK so far, although I'm still concerned the upper lip will snarl fine but it's still not really going back to place too great when I relax the jaw.

A question about hair punching: you punched each strand in like a "V" with the fork tool created out of a filed down needle with a broken off eye, right? Meaning, you grabbed a strand in the middle with the fork and punched it in so a single strand became 2 hairs sticking out. How deep did you punch it in and does the Dragon Skin basically just hold it in?
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SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, the dragon skin will hold it for the most part, but I also Glued it as well after the hair was all punched. Once I was done I cut the hair on the other side down to about 1/16 - 1/8 of an inch. I then took a Brush and painted on the Sil-Poxy glue right over the hair! This locked it down so I can really bush thru it, not worring about hair coming out.

I actually bought my hair punching tools at: http://www.fxsupply.com/tools/hairtools.html

I went with a mediem and Fine needle Mushroom. I went with the Mushroom because it has a built in nitch to the handle so you can keep the fork in the same postion alot easier.

http://rebornsupplies.com/how_to_root_hair
I found this helpfull on the how too

http://www.turtilla.com/tag/videotag/LpfMji8J7JM-video-to_Root
This was anoying, but not so bad muted.

I had very long shanks of hair so what I did was punch in the middle of the shank so I got 2 -10 hairs for every punch. If you punch at the end of the shank you get 50% less hair. So alot will depend on how long you hair is from the get go

Let me know if you need any more info Duck... be happy to help yah

Bob
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Masterbean (Brian Bean)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yay, FX Supply! I was thinking about purchasing some stuff through them when I get done with my Jedi outfit. I've been wanting to get into masking for a while now but first thing is first. Since you have purchased stuff through them, I'll for sure use them! Laughing
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SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
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Joined: 17 Feb 2007
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Colorado Wildfires 2012 Relief Award (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

About your lip Curl...

Right now you do not have any hair on the lip. The back side of your lip is solid Dragon skin I immagine. Dragon skin is by nature a wanna stick to everything product till it gets dirty or other. Once you hair Punch the hair you will end up with stubs of hair on the other side of the lip.... this should prevent the dragon skin from even touching your skull, alowing it to slide back into the normal position I imagine. One thing you can do if your in the testing phase is use baby powder on the inside of the lip... this is recomended by smoothon for most of thier products anyways to prevent sticky situations.

Another note on the hair punching....
Yeah almost all the tools I have seen out there are needles that are modified. The needle is filled down so the Eye of the needle is exposed. keep filing it down to the base of the "V". It is extreamly important that the V is very small in length. If your V is too big... you will Grab way to much hair and you will end up with a Barbie doll Hair punch look. once you have it Filed it down to a V shapped.. lay the V down on a file flat so you see the V shape(use a fine metal file ) and sharpen both side to a sharp point! This will allow you to enter the Dragon skin with the least amount of damage to the Silicone and the Fewest hairs.

If you wanna get more hairs in at a time... just go with a bigger V cut. I used a Barbie style hair punch till I got closer to the visable areas.

When punching hair make sure you keep the fork Perpendicular to the flow of hair so you can grab hair... or you will be punching nothing. That is why I went with the Mushroom tool, it keeps the needle in the same position every punch.

Also remember to keep the needle angled in the right direction you want the hair to lay... if you punch straight up and down you will have hairs coming straight up Wink. I am sure you can immagine how important this is around the nose and eyes!

Once you are done punching hair you will have thousands of loops in your mask on the other side... this will need to be trimed down a bit for glueing.


This was just after I attached my Gray hair to my mask, yet before I trimed the hair that was punched. Kind of gives you an idea of what the hair will look like just after it is punched.

Do not worry about the way it looks once you finnish the punching of the hair... it will look like Hell! Chewbacca I am sure went thru many hair cuts and stylings before they went into shooting. If you know anyone who is a profesional hair Styilist and likes Start Wars.. recruit them.... you will not regret it!

Bob
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SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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