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Ep. II, Padme battle outfit
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neimhaille ()
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 11:18 pm    Post subject: Ep. II, Padme battle outfit Reply with quote

Kia ora all,

Much as I adore Padme's incredible gowns I get enough of wearing big frocks in my other life as an historical costumer so I tend to like to make quite the opposite when I get the chance! I love this outfit because it is so practical yet the details really make it special.

I have started patterning again, it's been 7 years since my last try and I nnow actually have the machinery to really work with stretch fabrics!
I have my progress up over here:
http://outpost42.dr-maul.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=683&view=findpost&p=19766

So far I've patterned much of the top, the pants are fairly easy my only concern is in how to do all the topstitching as every seam has it. Even the inseams. I guess it will just mean carefully stitching the last seam in each leg as it bunches up in front of the foot!

I am debating between vacforming the "pouches" or using cuir bouille. The former is more accurate the latter easier to do in my own workshop;)

The boots are giving me trouble, but as no boot shows above the ankle I am a bit more free to choose what to use- men's boots tend more towards this style than women's. The shin guards appear to be three layers:
plastic, textured (or with leather carefully glued to the face) and shaped with leather straps.
A leather wrap around with some inner stability as it is very firm and unyielding to the straps.
A leather wrap that has padding at the upper back for comfort when worn.

I wasn't sure if there was two or three layers until I looked at the hi res cover of the "Entertainment" magazine shown here:
http://rebelshaven.com/SWFFAQ/arena.php
Note how the leg closest to us shows the inner most layer has slipped down so the padding sits under the flat leather piece.
The plastic shaped piece may be permanetly fixed to the flat firm leather piece too but it also sits unevenly at the ankle from image to image.

I'm quite looking forward to this and I hope to have it ready in a few months (hah!) because it has the possibility of making the "pouches" functional. Most excellent for conventions!

Here are the progress photos anyway:

The original is made with no armscye so I laid the garment as flat as I could and just traced around it for the front and the back. This lead to the obvious folding issue below:

Yep the armscye is slightly important for fitting around the hollows of the armpit and bust. But the original garment solves this with the centuries old technique of an underarm gusset. This is a diamond (not triangular) shaped piece inserted into the seams.
So the first thing to do was to snip into the front and back panels to allow the fabric to stretch in the area so I could begin to fit the arm/bust area.

I then used pins to guide where the main seam going across the bust was positioned so that I could cut and shape that area. The folds in the armpit area can be smoothed out by removing excess fabric from above the seam most easily. This would create a dart if there was no seam present.

In doing this though it meant the back and fronts no longer were the same length and I got wrinkling in the back. but look! The diamond shape for the gusset to fill in has already appeared!

So the next task was to take a section across the back and level with the front area. This also meant evening and trimming the side seam to match. Note this seam will not be present in the final garment! This is purely for fitting purposes!

And for some reason overlocking this together shifted the seams up higher in the body (I pinned to allow for some overlap of the cut edges but it seems to have not been enough, also the back being the smae height as the front now means the front is pulled up and to wards the back at the shoulder). This is fine as I can easily adjust for that in the next draft. Also this is a very slick fabric prone to rolling so it is going to pull in odd directions. The next test will be less likely to move about too much. This is also why the curved fold appears at the waist. It appears in my actual clothes as well.


Last edited by neimhaille () on Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:30 am; edited 1 time in total
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neimhaille ()
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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Test pattern number 2:

Test pattern three in the morning.

Much better test fabric though. It is very firm and is not prone to sliding like the previous.

The seam is proving to create the shape as I anticipated and by altering the angles just a few degrees really makes a huge impact on how smoothly it fits and even affects the length of the entire piece. This is my primary focus in costume: fit and construction. Probably why this appeals to me, the top and pants look really simple but they are far more complex than they appear. Especially given how little give the originals had compared to the fabrics most readily at hand.


Last edited by neimhaille () on Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:34 am; edited 2 times in total
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neimhaille ()
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



Finally, several years down the line and I have gone from my first test run (using a straight stitch sewing machine and some crepey sparkle fabric) to my first run of the top!


Last edited by neimhaille () on Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:37 am; edited 2 times in total
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Aysel ()
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dang! that turned out nice! good job!
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padme911 (Becca K)
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 1:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice progress, Neimhaille

I was lucky enough to have 2 good friends come down(the Anakin and OBK) and another good friend who is an awesome photographer come down to the OBX and we went to Jockey Ridge State Park(aka Tatooine).
Aggressive Negotiations:


Shmi's Funeral:


On top of the world:


We have many more pics, this is just a preview but it was a lot of fun and the best thing I have done on summer vacation in a while Laughing
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Jeslyn (Jessica M)
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yay I got mine done! check it out!

http://web.me.com/runamuk/Site/Jessica_Padme.html#grid
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Miana (Rachel Williams)
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a question about the boots. Where did everyone get them? I'm attempting a Naboo pilot, and it's the same boots almost but brown.
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JedHead (Matt Tolosa)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rach,

Try TheLeatherBoutique here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180289476005

He custom-makes boots (he made Becca's). If you send him detailed photos of the pilot boots from FIDM, I'm sure he can do them.
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Miana (Rachel Williams)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet as. Thanks Matt!
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Jeslyn (Jessica M)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's where I got mine! They work great and feel great too!
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"Sometimes there are things no one can fix." - Padme Episode II

"Sometime soon, you will decide the fate of the rebellion, not your Master." - Juno Eclipse

"Oh Master, I can tell you she's going to be impossible to reprogram." - PROXY
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elphaba ()
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a question, does any one know of a wig maker that can make the Padmé hairpiece she wears with this costume?
My hair is long enough to do the style myself but im serious problems with my hair at the moment so would prefer to get a wig.

sarah
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padme911 (Becca K)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not that I know of, but I know many on here, including myself made the hairpiece ourselves using curtain roping and fake hair.
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neimhaille ()
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would recommend carefully wrapping and gluing fake hair around those wired foam rollers. The sort you roll your hair around then bend to keep in place. Dollar stores often have packs of them for a reasonable price. If you go nice and slow as you wrap and glue you could get a very nice set that could then be assembled and glued/sewn to a base.

I'm still debating whether to use my own colour or go for a full wig...
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elphaba ()
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice, i've actually just finished making the hair piece YAY!

Thanks
sarah
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padme911 (Becca K)
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made new pants out of stretch twill(it was some blend of cotton/poly/spandex per Manhatten Fabrics) and the secret of the seams is the twin needle(extra wide). It actually works much like a serged seam since you are using 3 threads. Also made a new hairpiece out some fake hair coils I found at a local beauty supply store(sadly they were out and do not know if they will get anymore).

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/princessleia911/NYCC%202009/CIMG0152.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/princessleia911/NYCC%202009/CIMG0153.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/princessleia911/NYCC%202009/CIMG0154.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/princessleia911/NYCC%202009/CIMG0155.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/princessleia911/NYCC%202009/CIMG0157.jpg

Again, special thanks to my "prop", my hubby for indulging me Wink Mr. Green
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