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Jedi Knight Revan WIP
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RKorr13 ()



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
lookin good! this is a beautiful build thread and an awesome costume... can't wait to watch the rest of it come together Smile best of luck!


Thank you so so much!! Very Happy
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Dangams (David)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2020 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice progress! I remember the pain of drafting sixteen million different attempts for the mantles and hood, and even now four years later, I still occasionally find discarded prototypes, haha.

The lower mantle looks great, and I like how you're doing the collar - I look forward to seeing the full version of that when it's done.

For the upper mantle and hood, I think my personal preference would be for your first option - I think it would look tidier, and knowing how hot my costume gets around the upper chest and neck, adding extra layers is not something I'd recommend! That being said, I'm sure you could pull either version off. For the hood shape, I'd pick either the KotOR ref or the SWGOH ref rather than combining both. If going for the KotOR style and putting the hood up, use the Darth Revan model as a reference for the hood shape, as Darth and Star Forge started from roughly the same place.
As for hood length, you might want to do some of your armour design before finalising that, as I'd say that the best guide for how long it should be would be the patterning on the armour:

From your photo, I think it might be a bit too long at the moment? The point should around the same level as the chest circumference, just below the armpits.

Your Verpine headband is looking amazing, that red looks so good! Can't wait to see it fully assembled.

Good luck with the next bits!
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RKorr13 ()



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2020 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the input, Dangams!!

I am surprised that you would prefer Option 1, as I legit didn't think it would be allowable. But I am totally fine with that, if you are directing me that way! I think then, what I'm calling the cowl could be renamed to the Upper Mantle.

Maybe I will make the other version as well, simply because this is the start of that time of year where having a lot of layers would be really nice... Laughing

I am thinking, though, if I go with Option 1, that I will probably put that collar on a dickey, to sit underneath the LM + hood/cowl. I would be worried about having so many layers in 1 seam section. That would probably be bulky!

Thank you for the Darth Revan suggestion! I would really prefer to stay as in game in Kotor as possible, since to me that is my preferred version of this story. (Because then I get to be Revan Very Happy ) I definitely wouldn't have thought to look to the dark side version, since it's a different costume design, but I like the hood look far better. It seems to make more sense, practically, as well. If I were fighting, I probably wouldn't want to be restricted by the hood tucked in!

Cool! I think I've got the mantles designs figured out!

It's funny you should include that reference photo. A few hours after I posted my update, I wondered why I hadn't just looked at the reference photos for the hood length while I was studying that cowl portion. I will definitely take your suggestion, and look to the armor pattern. Leather is ordered!

Thanks so much! Very Happy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2020 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're very welcome!

One other thing I'd add about the hood design is that what I did (and what I'd recommend for the KotOR version) is to focus on getting the shape when the hood is down correct, and then adapt that to allow yourself to wear it up.

Good luck!
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2020 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree that the hood looks a bit too long right now. Smile But your progress looks great! Those resin parts have a lovely shade of red.

I think I prefer option 2. The design just seems to match references better.
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RKorr13 ()



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2021 12:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I think I prefer option 2. The design just seems to match references better.

Thank you for the feedback Lora!! Smile

Finally posting again, after a bit of time! The weeks tend to go by far quicker than I realize. On to the progress!! This time Ė Leather Forming! Not gonna lie, I did not have fun with this. But I finished the hardest part and itíll be smooth sailing from here! (she said jokingly, knowing that that is a ridiculous statement).

To start the leather forming, I used my dress form as a base. But, in order to get my measurements correct, I had to add some length from the shoulder to the chest. I did this by rolling bubble wrap to the correct size and taping it on. The rest of the measurements were easily attainable, since my form is adjustable, so I just made sure that I matched all the measurements wherever necessary.



Then, the base tunic dress went on over the bubblewrap and form. And I suddenly saw an exact replica of myself! Which was rather odd.



Next, I used a jacket and my measuring tape to get a basic oversized pattern for the leather front and back. I am forming this to match my body and the in game female model, so I wanted to make sure the base pattern was generally form fitting. I did not add in any seams or anything, that would normally be a part of a woven shirt pattern (princess seams or darts) because I had a pretty good idea of how to get the shape I wanted by wet forming and stretching parts that needed it.

First I cut out the general shape of the 4-6 oz. leather front and back. The front I cut off a few inches below the neck, and the back I took up to the shoulders for now, just in case. The tops will be cut off later when I determine the exact amount.



Then I filled the tub with water, and let the leather soak for about 30 minutes. This is what I found online and guessed should be a good time amount, since I am only used to working with really small leather projects.



While it was soaking, I wrapped the front of the form in saran wrap, because I didnít want to get the tunic wet.

Now, in order to get the chest shape I wanted, I used a technique that I had had success with while building Mando armor for a friend a few years ago. I have a large hole cut out in the middle of a piece of wood. The idea is to press the chest area through that hole to form the shape, with a round object. I personally use a shot put, because I was a shot putter for most of my life.



Itís probably not the most common object, and I canít honestly think of a substitute. The weight of the shot helps press down on the piece that is to be formed, so that I donít have to use too much pressure myself. I had marked the bust points , and chest outline on the back of the leather previously, so I knew the dimensions I was going for. In between passes with the shot, I would check to make sure it was fitting the wrapped dress form, and was in the correct locations. One thing I learned, is that leather doesnít stretch the way heated sintra does, and while this worked well for the shape formation, it messed up the edges of the leather, as they were pulled. Thankfully, the added leather on the edges of the pattern were the only thing that got deformed from this process, and those will be cut off anyway!

Once I had the chest shape formed, I had to figure out the best way to shape the rest of the bodice, including the waist and the hips. My waist is rather small compared to my shoulders and hips, and it did make it difficult to properly form. I also had trouble attaching the bodice piece where I wanted it to stay while I worked with duct tape. Duct tape does not stick in wet situations (this will come into play later when I go through my process to make Revanís mask). I found that the best solution was to tie scarves Very tightly in areas that were already formed. With a few scarves in place, I was able to stand the dress form up at like a 65 degree angle, which I found was the best way to work the rest of the leather.

Working the leather into shape was the reason that I found this step to be so difficult. It just kept needing MORE work, and kind of felt like it would never end. I spent about 2.5 hours of straight working and smoothing for the front piece and it was strangely exhausting.

One issue I ran into on the initial forming process was that the dress form Ė while great for clothes and adjustable Ė was too soft for me to really easily smooth the leather around, and the gaps in the form for the adjustable areas caused unnecessary waves in the leather.

But finally, the first pass was done and I left it to dry overnight, scarves in place!





As the picture shows, it looks like the bodice has abs. That was due to the variations in the form. In order to fix this, I went over the problem areas one by one with a spray bottle and smoothed out as much as I could. I decided it wasnít worth it to get it 100% smooth, because there will be another layer of leather over the top, that will be formed in a much easier way, and will not be wrinkled. I was very very happy with the way the front looked, and in comparing it to the female game model, it matched up very closely in form and shape.

The back section didnít take nearly as long, probably about 1 hour total, for the preliminary form.
And here are the front and back after smoothing.



Next was getting the correct pattern so that I can cut out the rest of the leather. To start, I wanted to get in game screenshots of my character, since the references from Dangams are for the male proportions. Unfortunately, I cannot find my Ipad where Revan is chilling in the Star Forge. So I had to go load the game on Xbox, figuring, out of all the times Iíd played the game, there had to be a save in the correct spot. There was not a single save point where I was wearing the robes with my companions still around, and all the other saves were a couple planets prior to the Star Forge. So I took a few super blurry shots directly front on, as well as a slightly clearer model from the RL website. I also took an angled picture that I had previously and matched that up with a photo from a similar angle of my dress form. Then I did a rough sketch of all the lines. It was cool to see that I had similar proportions as the game model! Except for my shoulders.



I did all this and I think I used this once.

In order to get the pattern matched to my leather bodice, I covered the bodice pieces in masking tape (for easier removal) and then a couple layers of duct tape, for structure.





Starting with a midline, I used my super blurry picture to take proportional measurements on the vertical sections of the armor pattern. I did a lot of proportional Ďalgebraí to make sure that I got the measurements as close as possible. Then I would go back to the amazing references pictures, and check to see what each piece actually looked like and sketch from there. I measured as carefully as I could, and did each mirror image piece immediately after itís original. That way, I didnít end up with a pattern that was uneven. I think the most annoying thing I went through on this was the constant scrolling through my phone to find the screenshots and pictures I needed for measurements.

And this was the end result!
Front



Back



After removing the tape from the bodices, I cut the pieces along the lines. I also made paper patterns for the pouches, and the front upper piece of the front armor, that goes over the lower mantle.

The final pattern sections!





I will cut these out of the leather soon, and make sure everything lines up properly. I will also use the color eye dropper tool on my computer to check which leather dye colors match best, though Iíll probably have to mix some to get the exact colors.

Thinner leather for the pouches is on the way, and I need to make the 3D pattern for that as well.

Next up will be the making of Revanís mask! Iím almost done with it (minus paint) and I canít believe it turned out the way it did!

Thanks for reading! Smile
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2021 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent progress! Very Happy That's some seriously big pieces of leather to wet form. I can understand why that was difficult.

I also loved your shoulder solution. Bubble wrap has a lot of uses. Wink
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Dangams (David)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2021 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's some seriously impressive progress! I wouldn't be too worried about the textures and exactness of the the formed layer of leather, as it will all be covered by the panels (mine looked absolutely horrific before I started attaching the pieces)

Genius idea for getting all the panels the right shape too - far more sensible than all the screaming, waving tape measures, and staring at blurry reference images that I put myself through. Can't wait to see how this comes through!
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RKorr13 ()



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2021 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lora Skywalker wrote:
Excellent progress! Very Happy That's some seriously big pieces of leather to wet form. I can understand why that was difficult.

I also loved your shoulder solution. Bubble wrap has a lot of uses. Wink


Thanks so much!! Yeah, my stash of bubble wrap is worth the rather large space I have to find to store it Very Happy
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RKorr13 ()



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2021 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dangams wrote:
That's some seriously impressive progress! I wouldn't be too worried about the textures and exactness of the the formed layer of leather, as it will all be covered by the panels (mine looked absolutely horrific before I started attaching the pieces)

Genius idea for getting all the panels the right shape too - far more sensible than all the screaming, waving tape measures, and staring at blurry reference images that I put myself through. Can't wait to see how this comes through!


I'm glad to hear you agree on the deformed areas. I look at things Waaayyy too closely sometimes. Even a couple layers of tape seemed to cover the problem areas!

Thanks! Hope it actually all lines up properly!
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RKorr13 ()



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2021 4:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey all, back with my Revan mask post! Smile I finally am (about) ready to paint it, as the paints finally arrived several months later, so I figured I would make a post about the construction of the mask separate from the paints. Both are their own separate ordeal!

So I am an engineer, but my main experience with 3D modelling was very boxy, mechanical type parts. This mask was my first foray into a more surface modelling type of thing, and of course I wanted to do it myself! (Though, as of this writing, Iíve now made a personal model for an entire set of Sabine armor, and I love how much Iíve learned through these projects!!) I found a somewhat straight on view of what I believe to be the KOTOR Revan model, as well as watched that reveal scene on Youtube to make sure it was the right one. For some reason, I ended up going over the model several times after I thought I was ĎDoneí because I seemed to have kept missing details.

A few things changed after the print was complete, but here are the model views!





I was happy with how it turned out! I didnít want to print the entire thing at once because of how much time and support structure Iíd need, so I split it at the strap insert area. I got the idea for the strap inserts from a project I did for a Battlebots team, where I had to 3d print some belt buckles for their outfits! The hood should hide any area that is slightly more raised than the rest of the mask.

I recently had completed a large print build of a giant hook out of PLA, trying to use XTC-3D to cover the layer lines. That project made me say Never Again. So because of this, I looked into some alternative methods of smoothing large and/or hard to sand prints. I decided to print with ABS, and test how acetone vapor smoothing would work!

ABS is a filament that is very prone to warping at the edges. To combat this, I made a Ďglueí mixture of abs filament pieces and acetone, to spread on some kapton tape I laid on my print bed. My printer is in my garage, as it is too large to be anywhere else, and it is currently winter in the Michigan. These temperatures made it so that my print bed cannot reach the temperatures usually necessary for ABS. Somehow, the top part of the mask printed perfectly! No warping on the edges. I figured that my plans would work for the rest of the mask. The bottom section of the mask was a ~ 43 hour print. 36 hours into my first try, and the print got knocked off the bed, due to late stage warping causing the printhead to collide with the part. This was annoying, but ok because I realized that the cheek sections I had changed werenít actually connected to the rest of the mask! I fixed that, and this time I added a raft to help with the adhesion and warping. 40 hours later, the print got knocked off the bed. This was getting annoying, but again, it worked out in my favor and I was able to change another thing on the model. After making sure I was actually done with the changes (lol no, I wasnít) I decided to wait for the temperature to raise a bit, which thankfully was in the forecast. I didnít want to put a space heater inside the enclosure, in case of a fire, but I did end up putting a tarp over the entire printer, and tried to keep it as closed around the printer as I could. I was able to get a temperature differential of about 7-8 degrees! That was enough, and my third attempt was perfectly successful!! No warping whatsoever!





I finally had a whole mask! The top and bottom also fit together perfectly, and the size was great for my face.



Next was the acetone vapor smoothing. I did a decent amount of research on this beforehand, and lucky for me, I had 2 great test pieces due to my 2 failed prints! The guides for this sort of thing say to start at 15 minutes and check to see if that was enough. I ended up with a time of 2-2.5 hours to get it how I wanted. I also experimented with heat and a fan. Heat didnít do much, and the fan sped up the process so fast, I melted one of the failed parts. That was fun to see, but I nixed the fan because I wanted to slowly creep up on the correct amount of smoothing. I decided to do the top and bottom separately, then attach them together after the fact.

Here is my chamber, courtesy of a jewelry box from Michaelís. I had to hot glue all of the edges because this box was not well made at all!

Top



Bottom



In order to get uniform smoothing, you want to put a pool of acetone in the bottom of the chamber, and acetone soaked paper towels around the rest of the chamber. Now, online research kept saying to use magnets to hold the paper towels against the sides and top then soak with acetone, but I couldnít figure out why they would say to use magnets 'And' a glass box. So I used duct tape and blue tape instead. I found a really great way to weather your custom armor!

Tape does not stick when wet, and one of my paper towels fell off and into the forehead of the top piece, while the ABS was sticky. It caused a really nice divot, but thankfully I had been keeping an eye on the chamber and caught it early. So I put a lot of tape on the outside and inside of the box for the bottom half of the mask. It was only after the fact that I realized that you can put magnets on the outside and inside and sandwich the towels between them. Thankfully, though, I did not have any more falling towels!

When ABS is vapor smoothed, it gets a nice glossy surface:



This is really useful for sanding because you can see what areas you still have left. The smoothed ABS sands REALLY easily, and it was something I would absolutely do again. There were no layer lines whatsoever. Another nice thing about ABS is that you can make a slurry with another ratio of acetone and ABS pieces to use as a really strong filler! I used this for the sides. The only problem I ran into during this process was the edges no longer matched perfectly. But this was taken care of with that slurry. I filled the gaps and sanded them down.

Here is the gap mid fill:



And here it is after filling and sanding:



I canít recall what grit I went to before I used filler primer, but I think it was maybe a 400 wet sand.
I primed the mask:



Then, I kept going over the small spots with bondo spot filler.



Then I would sand and prime again. I did this until I was happy with it. I had to stop myself because I kept looking at it with a microscope, filling in every unseen potential blemish I could find. Finally, I wet sanded from 400 Ė 2000. For some reason, I find I have to do that wet sand grit range step twice. I never quite get it perfect the first time, but the second time fixes the mistakes.

I took a fun picture thinking that I was done:



Then a month later, my paints arrived, and I made the last minute decision to get rid of the groove in the forehead. I had seen a few masks around with that in it, but closer examination of the Revan cutscene reveal shows that it is not there in game. (Thereís also a back section but I am not dealing with that, nor will it ever be seen). So I decided to fill in the groove. Silly me forgot about the primer and tried to use ABS slurry because of how well it worked on the sides. I ended up scraping it all out, and building up with Bondo again. Several passes later, and while not as perfect as it wouldíve been had I not included the groove, I am happy with it, and am going to stop messing with it.

Here is my final unpainted mask, prior to a final sand I will do before I start painting!!



Not going to lie, having a mask Iíve wanted since I was a kid is the coolest thing Iíve experienced in a long time! I cannot wait to paint it! tk
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2021 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's looking so good! It's come out really well, and seeing the stages is really interesting. I've just started using a resin printer for small prop parts and leatherwork tools, so I definitely know the feeling when it comes to experimenting with new techniques to get the results you need. Can't wait to see it painted!
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