Jacket General Draven

[ForceLeo ()]

Hello everyone, when it comes to talking about sewing, unfortunately my English reaches its limits. I excuse myselfe if somethink is not as clear as it should be.

But I try:
The bags get a strip of fabric so that they are not sewn on directly but are correct like parka bags.

We put it flat first to see what it looks like and how the Flaps look linke and what steering they need.

One problem is that we have with the pockets is: we made the rigt measurements to the top and bottom pockets. The bottom one is significantly larger, but because I am much wider, and therefore the jacket has more fabric, the bottom pockets appear much smaller than they are. further enlarging it doesn't look great either. Do I have to test again.

[tenebris (empathy)]

As we are all different shapes and sizes you may need to tweak the proportions. Its possible that making the top pocket a bit smaller would work, if making the bottom pocket bigger doesnt look right?

I usually start with a tolie, so I can draw on it (this is a tolie for officer A but its the same process). I pick a reference point for example the pocket flap depth and use that to work out the size of everything else so its all proportional. Then i might need to adjust that to work for my body.




Then i fold a piece of paper to fit in the pocket spaces.



Then i cut it to the rough shape....I do this for both pockets and just keep making the paper shapes bigger or small till it looks about right. You can also pin the paper on so you can put the garment on to see how it looks.

Only then do i do it in fabric. Its so much quicker.




Here are my bottom pockets





These are the patterns, with the pocket strip. My top pocket is a touch small as i have super narrow shoulders.




_________________
Legion Costuming Judge: Officers
Galactic Strategic Command , DXO
BMO Elstree Base UK
Duty Officer Home One Command, Elstree Base UK

[RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)]

[ForceLeo ()]

Dear empathy,

thank you for your work and all the pictures! this is really helpful! Thank you so much!

I will try with the pockets, but i think will will have to make a compromise between the size and the appearance. Next week i will make the next attempt and get the pictures in here.

in the meanwhile i will start planing the boots

[ForceLeo ()]

Hello

I made a bit of progress








We testet now different pocket sizes and we are satisfied with the bottom one bute we will make the top ones a little bit smaler.

Also the stuffed yoke is to big and needs to be smaller, but overall we a getting somewhere...

After the adjustemnts we have to sew it all together. Im so looking to finish that jacket!

do you have further hints?
Thanks for the support!

[ForceLeo ()]

Hello

I made a bit of progress








We testet now different pocket sizes and we are satisfied with the bottom one but we will make the top ones a little bit smaller.

Also the stuffed yoke is to big and needs to be smaller, but overall we a getting somewhere...

After the adjustments we have to sew it all together. Im so looking to finish that jacket!

do you have further hints?
Thanks for the support!

[tenebris (empathy)]

This is looking really good!

i agree that the smaller pockets are better. and that the collar is a little over stuffed in the back.

I noticed that there is a seam on the arm of your coat that looks like its piped. But on the reference its just top-stitched.






_________________
Legion Costuming Judge: Officers
Galactic Strategic Command , DXO
BMO Elstree Base UK
Duty Officer Home One Command, Elstree Base UK

[ForceLeo ()]

Dear Emapthy,

thank you. That was a hard one to remake. Here is the progress on the arms and the collar. Think should be finde. Still have to resize the upper pokets, but im realy satisfied with the rest.

Do you see any further mistakes? It's so good to have a few more eyes looking to that. Im so really thankfull!

[ForceLeo ()]

So, some progress!

I know that the boots and trousers are wrong, but i put them one to give you the impression. I will leave the jacket that way untill the registration process, lets see i manage to get this costume finished and approved

[RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)]

Oh that's looking really good! Do you have a plan for the trousers and boots? We have a guide in process for the boots- I'll come back and link it later today.
_________________
Legion Costuming Judge: Officers, Rebel Supporters
Sunrider Base, BXO
Galactic Strategic Command, DCO
Yavin Command Post, Duty Officer
Sunrider Base Charity Officer 2016-18
-------------------------------------------------------
Mon Mothma, OT Pilots, Willrow Hood, Resistance Officer, TLJ Leia, ANH General, Mirax Terrik, Lyra Erso

[ForceLeo ()]

For the Trousers i have a plan, i ordered some kind of army/utility pants that matches the costume standards

The boots are a different thing. I know the tutorial from the forum. I have no sewing machine that could sew leather.

Currently i look after Boots with and without laces, so i have the option to make a leather cover for the laces or just the ankle cuff. I will ask a local Shoemaker what he would recommend.
I try to get matching leather and than darken it with the same leather color.

But i'm looking forward to any advise or trick you have:)
Thank you!

[tenebris (empathy)]

Looks really good

I would say its easier to alter the chelsea style boots with no laces.


Some pattern help for those wanting to make a spat to attach can be found here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zKQU--1VqLbp0dVd2MRfRLl8xOEiPcwR/view?usp=sharing


Tutorials for Modifying Existing Boots:

Ben has put together a really detailed build thread showing how he patterned and modified a pair of Rockport boots here:

http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=112660&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I sewed mine, very slowly with a leather needle and teflon foot on my domestic machine. I used Nappa:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g-tlnbszeUwBP-5fNDci6sK1BlNmmUH8/view?usp=sharing


The trousers for Draven are a 2 pleat pocket with vertical quilting on the knees.



These are mine:





Kristina - Ive been wondering about something like these to mod, as they have the pockets, are twill- Its just that the knee section is a little long? It says that the knees are re-enforced, so maybe that section comes off and it could be shorted and put the padding in?

https://www.military1st.co.uk/f520112250-propper-bdu-trousers-button-fly-polycotton-twill-khaki.html
_________________
Legion Costuming Judge: Officers
Galactic Strategic Command , DXO
BMO Elstree Base UK
Duty Officer Home One Command, Elstree Base UK

[ForceLeo ()]

Hello everybody,

first of all (again) thank you very much!

I ordered a pair of pants that should match the colors and the pockets (just have to fit me). Since quilting on the knee is optional, I'll leave that out.

(Since I don't do a face character, that's okay too, I think)

What amazes me are the shoes. General Draven's shoes look different from Scarif Marines' shoes. They seem higher and made differently. It looks like half-yard boots with zippers and laces were taken. Then you have hidden the piece with the laces with a T piece and left the zipper. At the end, put the cuff on top.

If Scarif Marines shoes were also possible, I would work with Chealsey boots and leather gaiters. I know that some have registered their Scarf Marine shoes like this. Is that even an option?

[tenebris (empathy)]

[ForceLeo ()]

I read that with the Chealsey boots. Isn't it a Problem that you can see the non leather pats of the boots? Most Chealsy boots have a stretch cloth on both sides. If you only make the cuff at the "top end" of the shoes that could be visible.

Edit: Is it leagel to post shoplinks to Boots? I found a good pair of Leather(like) boots in a dark brown, with no cloth on the outside and a zipper at the inner side. Would be possible to find the right leather to make a cuff.

Is it legal to make the cuffs a bit strechy?