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Scarif Marine goggles
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kman ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2020 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I said it before, and my stance and vote remains accuracy, FWIW. Even if the vintage goggle are not readily available, between resin casts and a free 3D model (Anyone in the world can have them printed for a price comparable to a pair of modern goggle, if they have to use a commercial service, or far less if they have a 3D printer or a friend with one.), I see no reason to allow more modern (and visibly inaccurate) goggles.
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kman ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2020 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I posted this on one of the FB groups, but it should probably go here as well. And perhaps in a separate thread, which I may do later.

Iím fortunate to have a pair of Cebes, but I do think this could be a good option, for a fairly reasonable price even for those who have to use a commercial printing service.

This is a rough print off the printer. I didnít clean it up other than to tear off the bigger supports (the vent area in particular needs more cleaning up still). To me, it looks like it could be a pretty viable option, once cleaned up a bit (especially those top vents, although a different print orientation might help with that) and painted and weathered! (And obviously with a lens added, which is simple enough)

The model is far from perfect, but I donít think it will take any more work than we usually lavish on various costume parts to finish. The usual sanding and painting, cut a few small holes for straps and such, cut a lens from plastic, and thatís nearly it. Iíve done far more work on blasters and other props.

The model could use improvement, particularly if someone could clean up the model a bit and add some small missing details (beyond my skills at this point). But even as it is, I think itís better than using modern goggles that donít have anything like the right shape.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4122168

So here are the photos of this rough print (not printed at a fine resolution, just draft 0.3 settings and no special tuning), alongside my vintage Cebes.











And one showing it raw on the printer, just for fun:



I might spend a little time finishing these just to see how they turn out completely done.
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2020 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree. Now that there's a free 3d print pattern, the goggles are no harder to get than any other greeblie. I would lean toward accuracy since they're such a specific look.
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PArmstr (Patricia Armstrong-Krauss)
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2020 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also prefer to have more accurate goggles but not everybody in every country may have access to a 3D-printer. Also, some people do not use Facebook and might not be aware of Guillermo googles. If we want people to only use these two types of replica goggles then they should be available in the sales area here in the forum.
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PArmstr (Patricia Armstrong-Krauss)
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could someone that either has original CEBE 15 goggles or Guillermo replica goggles post the correct measurements here in this post? My friend was not able to print the goggles from the Thingiverse file because the object in the file is very small and he did not know the size of the real goggles. He also had problems figuring out how to print the goggles without a lot of support material on his 3D printer. Perhaps someone could create a tutorial for less experienced people?
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RIAD GRRRL-Squad-Leader 2019-present

Costumes: jawa, RFT ANH, signals intelligence technician, Rebel Vanguard (Hasbro), desert rebel trooper, Senior Officer, Yavin Operations Officer/Trooper

WIPs: EA BF2 Tatooine Specialist, 2 Scarif Marines, 2nd YOT/O, EA BF 1 female Bespin trooper
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Kievan Mereel (Sam Coulson)
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The goggles should be ~18cm wide, but as it is a 3d file it can be scaled to fit anyone's face. I set the default scaling of the 3d model to be 18cm.

As for proper printing orientation, I've seen it done several ways. The most important parts are structural integrity and smoothness of finish.

For finish, the goggles should be facing up, away from the print bed, so that the visible surface gets the smooth print, and any areas where supports will be removed will be hidden by facing towards the hat, or covered up by the foam gasket.

For strength, the guy who printed them for me did it rotated so that the areas around the nose were horizontal to the print bed, and had continuous strands of plastic as much as possible to reinforce that thin weak area. This meant that there was some support cleanup on the top of the goggles around the detailed vents.

I'm adding these notes to the Thingiverse page.
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kman ()
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I printed mine with full supports, as you can see in the final photo above.

And yes, Pamela, based on our measurements taken during our chat last night I'd agree 17-18cm wide is about right. Mine are closer to 17.5, but a hair over. Any measurements are a bit fungible, though, as the goggles are VERY flexible so you're really picking what "seems like" the right "spread" as you measure the width. Plus there is a wide skirt around the edge... wider than the model, but thinner, so again, some judgement calls come into play. Every time I measure it, it's a little different, due to this. Sometimes closer to 17, sometimes almost 18 (but usually not quite there).

Really, though, anything in the right ballpark should be fine. Scale it to the wearer, within reason. (Oh dang, I really need to print a kid size version!)

Here are the measurement photos I took last night. (I prefer to work in metric measurements for small props, much simpler than fractions of inches, and most 3D printers work in metric anyway) Text included in case my photos ever go away. (they shouldn't, since I'm hosting them personally, but you never know, plus I won't live forever LOL)

Lens Width, across the front (bend to bend at the top) (140mm):


Goggle height, top of vents to bottom edge (~80mm):


Width, skirt edge to skirt edge (177mm):


Top vent width (this is a "hard part" so should be good as a scaling reference if someone really wants to nail a copy) (15mm):


Width of Goggle body, ignoring the skirt (~160mm, but measurement is a bit suspect due to softness of goggles and awkwardness of holding the goggles, ruler and camera):


Also, just for fun, since I had cleaned up the top vents a bit more (still haven't sanded or painted, obviously), I thought I'd include these photos to show how nicely that top detail comes out, even in a fairly rough print setting (I think I printed at .3 for speed, since this was only intended as a proof of concept)





Hope all this helps others!
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