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Niall's R1 trooper thread

 
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2020 11:53 pm    Post subject: Niall's R1 trooper thread Reply with quote

I recently got my first RL costume approved, a Rogue One trooper. I wasn't all that active on the forums during the process, so I've been asked to write up what I did to add some sources and techniques that may not be here.

The biggest help was the Facebook "Rogue One Rebel Troopers" group. People are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful there, and I was able to source some of my parts as well. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1463353270345651/



The rest of my submission pics are here. http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/costume.php?mode=view&c=23028

All the pics in this thread are after I've weathered them, but I'll discuss how I did that at the end of the thread.


Last edited by Niall () on Wed May 20, 2020 12:07 am; edited 1 time in total
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Niall ()
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Joined: 11 Jun 2018
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first step was figuring out which trooper type I wanted to do. The CRLs are under review to expand some of the options that go together, but at the time the basic torso options were the ones in the Visual Guide.

Tunic and open-backed vest (Melshi, Kappehl)
Jacket and flak vest (Sefla, Tonc, Basteren)
Anorak with bandolier or grenade vest (Casrich, Calfor)

I'm not a big fan of tucking my shirt in, and the anorak didn't seem as "Star Wars" to me. For those reasons, I went with the tunic style and the goggle hat. I love the helmet, but it just didn't seem as obviously Star Wars as the hat.

THE TUNIC




I traded projects with a friend from my reenactment circles to make this. It has a short mandarin collar and neck opening that velcros closed and the cuffs close the same way. The shoulders are eased with a modern construction (more than my skill can do). The hem is split up the sides with rounded corners at the bottom and extra lines of reinforcement stitching across the front and back.

The patch on the right shoulder is based on ones from Hoth. In the original trilogy costume book, it says they tell the division, regiment, and brigade in each column. I got this one from the facebook group, and one of the members there has an etsy shop where you can download the pattern and print onto fabric. https://www.etsy.com/shop/HoltsWares

The canisters on the left shoulder go on at a 45' angle. I made them out of antique 35mm film canisters and added some pipe inside so I could extend them a little longer.
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

THE VEST

Troopers wearing the tunic in the film can also be seen wearing the flak jacket and the grenade jacket, but I was inspired by Private Kappehl's look so I went with the open-backed vest. It fits differently than it seems at first glance, only coming down to the bottom of the ribs. The loops on the front hold the belt, and a strap goes across the back with a vertical one connecting to the neck.



I got mine from https://www.etsy.com/shop/20EyesDesign. It's surprisingly lightweight out of a synthetic material with a bit of sheen. It opens with velcro on the chest but I had to take it in a bit at the top since it was too wide and hung open strangely.

I also had to do a bit of work on the back.

It came with a plastic click buckle closing the back strap which I replaced with a matching tri-glide slide. I also attached the extra vertical strap which wasn't standard.

I spray painted the yellow patch with rustoleum. Doing multiple heavy coats made it brittle so it cracks in a way that looks good for weathering.

The greeblies are from a friend who has since closed his etsy shop, but there are multiple patterns on etsy and thingiverse. Jyn's Eadu combadge is one option, as is Cassian's turned upside down. The open-backed vest has a second greeblie on the stomach which is harder to find now.
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Niall ()
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Joined: 11 Jun 2018
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

THE PANTS
I bought BDU pants from Amazon. Nothing special. The only work I did on them was weathering and attaching some elastic to the ankles so they won't come out of my boots.



THE BOOTS

I bought a cheap pair of chelsea boots and a used set of Swiss gaiters. I used a bit of scrap leather to sew loops for the cylinders which I made out of 3/8" galvanized pipe. They aren't light, but I actually like the extra weight. I don't feel it after wearing it for a couple minutes, and I'm not worried about breaking them if I bump into something.




Since I made these, I've discovered that the Swiss gaiters are wrong. They'll still pass, but I'm working on a new pair of accurate boots and documenting them here http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=112660
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 2:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

THE HAT

I was torn between the goggle cap and the M1 helmet. I love the look of the helmet but the goggles just scream "Star Wars" to me. Steven Walker on the Rogue One Rebel Troopers facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/1463353270345651/ made this one for me to my measurements and I couldn't be happier. The flaps for the radio and goggles ll secure with velcro.




The radio is 3D printed from a friend of mine but came with no antenna. The ones in the film have 3 sections. The bottom is square, then round, then thinner round. The top two sections were often bent. I cut a piece of acrylic to a square for the bottom section and drilled a small hole in one end. I stuck a wire in it so it could bend, then used electrical heat shrink tubing to add the double-thickness on the wire.

The goggles are a resin cast from Guillermo Carbonell on the facebook group. He made them from original Cebe 15 goggles with the lenses in. The originals are rubber and fit the face. Since these are rigid, they'll never be comfortable, so they could be worn as-is by just adding some window-tinting over the lens.

I'm a glutton for punishment, so I cut the lenses out. I was able to score an original lens so i superglued that in and used bathroom caulking to fill in the gaps. I added tan elastic for the trap and secured it by sewing on a piece of leather to match the film. The last step was a couple single stitches to keep them in place.



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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 4:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

THE BELT

I bought a tan PLCE belt I got off a surplus website with a black rollpin buckle.

The little ribs are usually worn right side in for adjustment and there's a small metal end with two hooks to secure it. I turned this inside out and sewed it down since I couldn't use it the way it was designed. I may change this and add a bit of webbing at the end to sew down the buckle so it isn't as bulky.

The belt came with small belt loops of thin webbing. I used one of these to sew carriage loops on the buckle and insert hose connectors The trick is to sew the loops just barely smaller than you think you need. That way the pieces won't slide out. Timker wears these in the Visual Guide, and so does Cassian, every Rebel tech, every Rebel pilot, and almost everyone in the sequel trilogy too.



The hose connectors are 9.5mm hose tailpieces, very common in Europe. I'm in the US so had to go on ebay.uk to find them. The shipping was almost as much as the parts. There are lots of etsy shops that say they have these, but I haven't seen many that are accurate. I like metal because they're not breakable, but there's a 3dprint thingiverse file here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4269363 I'll add a list of useful thingiverse files at the end of this thread.



There are lots of options for belt pouches including:
- Greek thompson mag (pouch with grenade toppers)
- Yugoslavian mess kit
- Yugoslavian mess kit (dyed blue with red/white symbol)
- British pattern 58 kidney pouch
- British pattern 58 canteen pouch
- Danish HTK thompson magazine pouch (British made)
- French triple grenade pouch
- Chinese SKS belt (with straps hidden)

I searched surplus websites and found a triple grenade pouch and HTK pouch. The HTK had obviously been stored flat for a long time so I put some spare foam hose insulation I had in my shop to keep it open. Sometimes I use smaller pieces of it in the triple grenade pouch, but usually that one is for my phone, wallet, and keys.



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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 4:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

THE BLASTER

I got a Nerf A-300 (Cassian/Jyn blaster) when they first came out thinking I would update it at some point, but got bogged down getting the extra parts and mods I wanted. So while I waited on those, I picked up a Nerf DH-17 to paint.



The blaster as-is needed very little work. All I had to do was fill in the screw holes and cut off the ring on the cocking lever and the dart storage on the side. I got a little fancy. I knew I'd be using rifle sling swivels so I epoxied one of them into the cocking lever. The scope still lights up (because it's fun) and the entire gun can still fire darts at 501st members. I'll discuss painting at the bottom of this reply.





THE BLASTER (PART 2)

The problem is that the Nerf DH-17 is the ANH version. Since I'm not a small person, the sidearm style blaster just looked small on a sling.



So I finally decided to finish up the A-300 nerf.



The Nerf A-300 has been accepted by RL without anything more than painting, but since this was an upgrade already, I decided to go all in. First up was the 3D printed scope and taclight.
The scope is from this thingiverse file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2485073
The taclight is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2764126

The next step was cutting off some of the pieces that don't match the lines of the real blaster. I cut off the brick stock attachment to attach a stock which I cut off. The spring for the trigger is housed in here so I had to drill a small hole in the plastic, cut the spring shorter, and re-secure it. I covered the hole with a thin piece of plastic I cut to shape.



The next piece is the magazine. I cut this on a slant with my dremel and used another piece of thin plastic to cover the hole. The real magazines have a little lip on the base of the mag, so I made this piece of plastic a little bit big.




The thingiverse scope is almost exactly the length of the Nerf accessory rail. I used a grinding dremel bit to shape the base until it fit into the accessory rail, then secured it with plumber's putty (also called epoxy putty). https://smile.amazon.com/Loctite-1999131-431348-Purpose-Repair. The epoxy putty doesn't take paint well so I made sure to leave space to fill in with Bondo spot putty. https://smile.amazon.com/Bondo-801-Professional-Glazing-Putty. I used this process to fill in the screw holes too.



I roughed up the connection point for the taclight with rough sandpaper and superglued it on.

PAINT

I sand the entire gun with 200 grit sandpaper so the paint will stick better. For small concave bits I can't reach, I use a brass wire brush on my dremel which leaves a similar effect. https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-536-02-Brass-Brushes-Pack

I paint the entire gun silver with rustoleum made for plastic. This gives a base layer under the black. If you bump it, there's a chance the silver will show instead of the blue or red plastic. Then I tape off the parts I want to leave silver and spray the whole gun black. I use white with a touch of metallic gold acrylic to do the taclight bulb, then covered it with a circle of the same clear plastic I used for the other repairs.

I add weathering in two stages. The black base gets drybrushed with silver acrylic on the edges that would get worn by use. For the silver base, I make a wash out of black acrylic with a little raw umber and lots of water. I paint it on heavily and lightly wipe or blot it off to leave some "grime" on the silver "metal".

The last step is a strap made out of the sling swivels, a metal slide, and some 1" cotton webbing from Joann's fabrics.



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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WEATHERING THE FABRIC

I'm lucky to be friends with the amazing artist known as OddViking here on the forums so I was able to work with him directly on weathering. He wrote up how he does the dirt and grime on fabric here: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=87950

The TLDR:

STEP 1
Prep the fabric. Think about WHERE the fabric would be weathered and HOW. Pay attention to seams, hems, knee/elbow, and wherever you would touch it with dirty hands. I use 220 grit sandpaper on seams and hems to add a bit of use and wear to the fabric itself. This is especially important on dark fabric like the blue pants I posted earlier that won't show the dark dirt very well.

STEP 2
Design master spray. Glossy wood tone is great, but it's hard to find. They make a sepia spray that works well too. I spray it unevenly over the areas I want to be dirty to add a nice base stain. I wear gloves and let my finger drag over the spray a bit to get blotches and spots that look like splatter.

STEP 3
Acrylic wash. Black and raw umber acrylic, mixed heavily with water. Depending on the color dirt you want, mix them differently, and potentially add a little burnt umber. I did mostly black with a little raw umber. Paint it on the fabric roughly but don't fully cover the areas you sprayed. If you get too much, you can wash it out with water before it dries. It will lighten the paint but won't completely remove it.
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RESOURCES

FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1463353270345651/
The best resource possible for any R1 trooper costume

THINGIVERSE

Grenade topper https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3441920
Goggles https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4122168
Hose connector https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4269363
Boot greeblie https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4152844
Hat comlink https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2814973
Blaster taclight https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2764126
Cassian transponder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2815311
Nerf barrel adapter (I'm thinking of adding this) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2770714
A280/300 Sniper includes files for the scope I used for my nerf upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2485073
A280 modular system will need 1" scope rings and picatinny rail https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2688776

SHOPS
http://www.allenamis.com/ Amazing resin casts including M1 helmets shields, transponders, and other greeblies. Fantastic person, very active on the facebook group and applying for RL soon

Parts for Pao's backpack https://www.etsy.com/listing/606818978/rebel-trooper-backpack-tube-handle?ref=shop_home_active_25

Explosive charges https://www.etsy.com/listing/640579175/rebel-blast-charge-kit-from-rogue-one

https://www.etsy.com/shop/LuminousOutfitters printed hose connectors and belt buckle

https://www.etsy.com/shop/NerfModsByJODOCAST Nerf A-300 adapter kits for scope, barrel, and stock

https://www.etsy.com/shop/20EyesDesign costume parts including open-backed vest and AN-H15 caps

https://www.etsy.com/shop/mrhemmingsworkshop Goggle caps and M1 helmet covers
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NEXT UP:

I'm working on a M1 helmet with parts from http://www.allenamis.com/
New boots I'm documenting here http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=112660
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PArmstr (Patricia Armstrong-Krauss)
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for posting this it is very informative.
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RIAD GRRRL-Squad-Leader 2019-present

Costumes: Jawa, RFT ANH, Signals Intelligence Technician, Rebel Vanguard (Hasbro), EA BF1 Female DRT, Senior Officer, Yavin Operations Officer/Trooper, Scarif Marine

WIPs: EA BF 2 Tatooine Specialist, EA BF female Bespin Trooper, 2nd Scarif Marine
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