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Ep 9 tROS General Leia WIP
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2020 9:49 pm    Post subject: Ep 9 tROS General Leia WIP Reply with quote

Welcome to my first WIP thread. I hope I do it right. Please feel free to ask questions or offer suggestions for some detail I may have not posted.

This is an unusual build and there has been much debate over the costume because Carrie Fisher’s image was inserted into the film using extra footage from TFA. For us, recreating this costume, we mainly need to accept that the costume was designed to easily match the lines of the TFA costume so it would be easier to do the CG involved. People were assuming the costume was CG. It is not. Several people saw the costume on display at the premiere as well. Carrie had a double, also an actress, who stood in for her and performed in her stead, in most of the scenes. (Taking with Rey at the Resistance camp, walking away from the command center with the aid of Lt. Connix, laying down on her bed, and dying.) This actress used the same body language and head movements and facial expressions as Carrie. She wore the costume, the jewelry, and the same hairstyle. All of this to make it easier for the CG matching.

I am getting my information about all of this via my connection with ILM/LFL. As well, I had an opportunity to examine the costume on my own for 3 hours. (Just before LDAC locked down due to the Coronavirus in early March.) I also have access to the clips which show exactly how Carrie, her stand-in, and the new costume were integrated. I am also consulting with a fashion designer on identifying materials. Though I have talked to people who can give me some answers, there are still mysteries which I am hoping you can help solve if I can’t get anywhere with my sources.

This build will take a while mainly because of two pieces in this costume which are time-consuming to source and/or to create. The material for the cloak, and the belt.

Another important thing to note is the color of the cloak material. In the film, the lighting can make it appear a bit blue or silver. In some scenes, it is darker. The actual cloak...very difficult to photograph in its true color because of how it picks up light … is in reality dark and a brownish-purple. Not really plum, more brown with a purple tone. The blouse is also a bit darker than in photos. All of the pieces of the costume are in the same color palette.

Let’s begin!

Here is a list of the costume pieces:
- Blouse/Tunic
- Pants
- Sleeveless cloak
- Belt
- Boots
- Earrings, two rings, bracelet
- Wig or hairstyle using your own hair.

Here is what I have confirmed about color and materials (what the original costume looks like):

- Wine/red, linen, cowl-neck blouse/tunic.
- Wine/plum, Gabardine pants.
- Brown/dark purple, sleeveless, floor-length cloak - the material is silk and has a pattern of very small rectangles 3/8” x 1 ¼”. It has thick, stiff black lining as you would see on upholstery.
- Brass and leather belt. Details will be covered in a separate section below.
- Dark brown leather boots. Toe is rounded. Sole and heel are layered leather, grey tone. The heel is 1 ½” - 2”. (Pant legs go down to the soles.)
- Gold earrings. SAME as TLJ Raddus Bridge.
- Gold ring with blue stones. SAME as TFA. Worn on the right ring finger.
- Gold “Tentacle” Signet ring. SAME as TLJ. Worn on the left ring finger.
- Gold-coated, brass “Oro-weave” bracelet. SAME as TLJ Raddus Bridge.
Worn on the right wrist.
- Hairstyle/ Wig will be covered in a separate section below.

I will use reference photos as I go along for each piece. But here is an album link and notes from my 3-hour examination of the costume. I am also using screen grabs from the DVD.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/amyyoungspix/p52474

GENERAL LEIA - Rise of Skywalker (Original) costume notes -
Observations on examining costume at ILM/LFL
(*notes are incomplete, not yet determined)

BELT:
- Two, 1.5-2" runs joined by brown leather at buckle.
- Leather is visible in openings at front of buckle.
- 1st metal link has end of brown leather wrapped over and sewn shut on end closest to buckle. Then connects with other metal links.
* Links look like bendable about 1-2mm gauge. Could be metal loops, but have not found this size yet.
- Link is rectangular. It is 3/8" x 1.5-2"
- Links are dull steel color and are worn/chipped on top and bottom. Worn areas are white.
* Links are held together by what looks like brass beads or tubing or possibly sheeting. (I am working on this with a couple of jeweler resources.)
- The buckle is slightly larger than TFA buckle and slight different shape. It is more symmetrical on the top and bottom. It also has texturing that looks like fine lines or a cheesecloth pattern. (I am working with an artist on creating a 3D printed version.)

PANTS:
- Gabardine type weave. (I found a very nice poly/cotton which is soft and comfortable and drapes well.)
- Burgundy/Wine (toward brown), Dark, (Darker than the blouse.)
- Wide-legged, lounge/pajama-style pants.

BLOUSE:
- Linen. Light burgundy/wine, toward red.
- Very high cowl draping across bottom of the neck.
- Sleeves have dropped shoulders. Loose.
- Back of sleeves have a couple of tucks at the back just above the elbow,
- Tunic length. Bottom is below crotch.

CLOAK:
* Original costume uses a window treatment/home decor fabric with thick upholstery type lining.
- The material is silk. Up close it has a very slight herringbone pattern.
* It appears to be pin-tucked, but not in any traditional pattern. The pattern are rectangles of 3/8" x 1.25" each. It may just have gridline stitching.
- Front of cloak has one princess seam on each side (L,R) going over the shoulder at neckline, to the top of the collar. Ending at top of shoulder/back. No pleats. Seam starts about 2.5 - 3" from edge of opening (center), at the neckline, and ends about 5" from the edge.
- There is one side seam, each side, directly under the armpit. A 2" wide pleat is formed starting at the hip.
- There is an additional side seam, each side, starting at the back edge of armpit, no pleats.
- The back of cloak has three seams.
- The center back seam has a very slight pleat at the very top.
- The center side seams are 2.5-3" from the center seam.
- NOTE: all distances between seams increase in width as they go to the bottom of the cloak. Cloak flares very slightly at the hip to increasing width to the bottom.
- Tops of shoulders are rectangular, thick/stiff. There are fitted shoulder padding, wrapped in the outer silk material, under the shoulder top piece.
- The collar of the cloak is very stiff. It is 3.5 - 4" high. It has three visible seams. The princess seam at front/each side (two), center back (three).

BOOTS:
- Dark brown with 1.5 - 2" heel. Pant legs length should cover over the top and instep of boots. No buckles, etc which are visible.


Last edited by doinit4carrie (Amy Young) on Sun Mar 29, 2020 6:14 pm; edited 5 times in total
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2020 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let me try that album link again. I have the worst luck posting pics!

https://www.flickr.com/gp/amyyoungspix/p52474
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LaV317 (LaVonne)
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2020 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for sharing all of this information! Leia Buns
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 2:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="LaV317"]Thank you for sharing all of this information! Leia Buns[/quote]

You are most welcome! More to come!
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll start with the JEWELRY.

BLUE & GOLD SANDSTONE RING



Same as one from TFA. There are many resources for this ring on Amazon. I got mine on Etsy from Kyber Krystal and am very happy with it.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/634482225/star-wars-general-princess-leia-ring?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=leia+ring&ref=sr_gallery-1-2&organic_search_click=1&col=1

TENTACLE/SIGNET RING



Same as one from TLJ. There is only one person making this ring right now, available on Etsy. The Moonlight Myth.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/624977733/leia-organa-tlj-tentacle-left-ring-star?ref=as_recently_viewed-2&frs=1

Although I did see someone (don't recall where I saw it, may in Bun Squad), who made it with a similar stone on a regular ring mount, then used gold writing gel/glue to make the tentacles.
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GOLD EARCUFFS (Earrings)

https://i.imgur.com/jDU8TxJ.jpg?1

Same as one from TLJ. There is only one person making this ring right now, available on Etsy. The Moonlight Myth.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/622787617/leia-organa-tlj-crait-and-tros-earrings?ref=shop_home_active_5&frs=1&bes=1

"ORO-WEAVE" WAVE WIRE BRACELET

https://i.imgur.com/1Zz4RPc.jpg?1

Same as one from TLJ. There is only one person making this ring right now, available on Etsy. The Moonlight Myth.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/749272347/leia-oro-weave-wave-wire-bracelet-tlj?ref=shop_home_active_1&frs=1


Last edited by doinit4carrie (Amy Young) on Sun Mar 29, 2020 7:02 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A very nice breakdown; thank you for that. Smile
And lovely references! May the detachment use them? If so you can submit them to us and earn a Junior Senator Program badge in the process.

Directions on submitting references to the RLGS: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100995
Archivist badge: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=111085

I look forward to seeing this being built. Do you have any idea what type of silk was used for the cloak?
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Lora!

Sure, the detachment can use the info too. The cloak material is VERY DIFFICULT to source. @ibejedi and I are working on it. It looks like silk twill, but the stitched pattern is not something we can find because this whole piece was made out of home decor, probably a window treatment.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you. Smile And best of luck with finding the right fabric for the cloak.
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

THE PANTS

These will be the easiest piece of the costume!

https://i.imgur.com/8qrzhEK.jpg?1

I found a pattern for some lounge style pants which I think work perfectly! (View C)



I found a gabardine style fabric in the same color and tone as the screen used costume. It is a linen/rayon blend. It drapes nicely, feels very comfortable.



Here are my finished pants. They have an elastic waistband. And since they will be under the coak, I added pockets.





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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2020 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

POCKETS! Mr. Green A good choice, I must say. That's a life saver when out trooping.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since this costume is approved under Officers, I'm going to move this thread over to the officer forums.

It's looking great so far!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Lora!

I'm glad it's looking good so far. It's all I have right now. Everything is kind of halted because of the virus outbreak. Can't do any decent fabric shopping!

Will resume soon, I hope!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can we get a slow clap for comfy pants with pockets? This looks great, Amy! You'd been looking at some cotton gauzes for the tunic/shirt part right? Were you able to get samples before things shut down?

Super excited to see this coming together. It's such a beautiful costume.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did get some swatches for the blouse back when I was sure it was gauze. But have now seen and was told it's loose weave linen. So I have been looking online for that. I actually have some swatches coming from Britex and Mood of linen or linen-like materials. I'll post when I get them.
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