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Anakin Skywalker EPIII revisions

 
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The_Auto_Tech (Cody Templeton)
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Joined: 09 Jun 2019
Posts: 35

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 2:38 am    Post subject: Anakin Skywalker EPIII revisions Reply with quote

I'm currently going through and doing a TON of updating on this over on the Anakin Skywalker Build Group on Faceobok, but figured I could post them here as well. I have all the reference pictures too, but am not sure how I want to go about posting them too. If you follow the links to the Facebook group you'll actually be able to see my costume photos and all the reference photos along with measurements too.

EDIT: At this point all of the items have been covered and posted. Not sure what needs to be done to go from here, but all of the info is compiled.


Last edited by The_Auto_Tech (Cody Templeton) on Sat Mar 07, 2020 5:16 pm; edited 2 times in total
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The_Auto_Tech (Cody Templeton)
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Joined: 09 Jun 2019
Posts: 35

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 2:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HAIR STYLE (from 501st CRL):
Brown in color
Shag style (tangled)
Comprised of varying lengths: shorter in the front and progressively longer towards the back
May be achieved with the individual's own hair or a high quality wig
OPTIONAL Level two certification:
Alexander the Great styled haircut, which has three varying lengths: Just above the eyes in front,
below the ears on the sides (taper and have varying lengths), and down to the shoulders in back.
These varying lengths are not abrupt; they blend and transition well into one another
The hair has some minor curling and look unkempt/dirty

HAIRSTYLE (from 2013 submission thread):
The style is slightly curly, and is called a “long shag” haircut, or also called a modified “Alexander-the-Great” cut, but slightly longer in back and at sides. The color is dark ash blonde/light brown. This hairstyle may also be achieved with either a human hair wig or a good quality acrylic-fiber wig, in the above-mentioned style and color. Fusion or glue-in hair extensions may also be used to augment your own hair to the proper style, but again, the resulting style should match the above-mentioned style and color. Hairstyle is worn parted on the extreme right side just past line of brow-bone, swept to the side and off of forehead in the front and left loose and tousled at back and sides.

Sideburns are medium to light brown in color, trimmed to hair-length of approx ¼” long, and should be shaped at the bottom in a moderate angular 70’s style. Sideburns are approx. ¾ to 1” wide and extend downward on the cheek to just past the earlobe.

Commonly used wigs:
https://arda-wigs.com/products/skyelar-classic

https://arda-wigs.com/products/bucky-classic?variant=27838035974


SCAR AND COMPLEXION (from 501st CRL):
A lightsaber scar runs vertically across the outer corner of the right eye, which can be achieved through prosthetics/make up or gelatin applied in coats. It starts in the middle of the right temple skips over the inset of the eye before terminating just below the eye
The areas under both eyes are lightly darkened by blending brown and red facial paints or similar product
OPTIONAL Level two certification:
The scar is slightly wider as it approaches the eye from both directions

MAKE-UP (from 2013 submission thread):
I. Dark circles under both eyes to portray Vader's sleepless, stressed appearance - These may be made using a very light smudging of brown eyeliner or theatrical makeup, applied with fingertip, beginning at inner corner of eyes and angled downward towards your cheeks, then smudged at the ends to blend into skin tone. There should also be the slight appearance of redness under each eye, along the lower eyelid. This can be achieved by lining the lower eye with a deep red lip pencil, and finger-smudging it to blend into the skin tone underneath the eye.

II. Forehead scar runs vertically from the top of the eye brow up to mid-forehead, placed approx .5" from the corner of the right eye. Scar resumes just underneath right eye and runs vertically for approx 1”, angling slightly towards outer cheekbone. The scar is a partially-healed burn-scar, which should appear slightly recessed in the center and the skin slightly raised on either side of the scar. This effect can be achieved with rigid collodion, latex prosthetics, or gelatin, and then very subtly shaded with theatrical makeup and pencils to achieve various subdued pinkish/red and flesh tones.

III. Left cheek scars which are optional. These are two healed and very subtle thin recessed scars, each with barely a hint of plum color in them, and can be seen on Anakin's face from the side view, very visible in the opera scene of Episode III where he meets with Palpatine. One scar is approx 0.75” long, and runs horizontally, starting just under the left cheekbone. The other is approx 0.5” long an runs vertically, starting just beneath and to the front of the horizontal scar. These scars should be very subtle and thin, and can be created simply, using a thin layer of rigid collodion, followed by a thin hint of deep plum/mauve pencil smudged inside the recessed scar once collodion is dry.


SITH EYES (from 501st CRL):
The contact lenses are described as a fiery yellow transitioning into a brilliant red
While considered an essential part of this character, the contact lens requirement will be waived for 501st acceptance if the applicant cannot wear contact lenses for health related reasons. All persons utilizing contact lenses are encouraged to first see their optometrist for a fitting

CONTACT LENSES (from 2013 submission thread):
Lenses should be yellow to yellow-orange tinted, with small wisps of deep red which feather in from around the circumference of the iris/lens. This lens requirement may be waived at the discretion of the LMO or GML if unable to wear contact lenses due to health issues or eye curvature incompatibility.

Commonly used contacts:
https://www.uniqso.com/products/coscon-crazy-lens-with-power-wild-fire

LINK TO THREAD : https://www.facebook.com/groups/anakinbuilders/permalink/847838795730964/
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The_Auto_Tech (Cody Templeton)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 2:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

INNER TUNIC (from 501st CRL):
Silk/bubble gauze type textured or similar fabric, karate gi or kimono style cut for the upper portion, hip length, but is only visible at the neckline and left wrist with no visible enclosures
Dark brown in color, and must be slightly lighter than the color of the outer tunic
There is a collar formed by a hem along the opening of the tunic
The sleeves extend to the wrist bone but are not visible below the hemline of the outer tunic
The cuff/wrist area of the sleeves are snug to the arm.
OPTIONAL Level two certification:
The tunic, as a result of the style of cut, folds left over right for closure
The collar is approximately 1.5" in width
For ease of wearing the glove, the right sleeve can be short and not full length like the left sleeve
OPTIONAL Level three certification:
The original material was a dark brown silk with an irregular weave to give it a wave-like texture
The color is closest to DMC floss 3371, with the raised portions of the weave being slightly washed/bleached out

INNER TUNIC (from 2013 thread):
Inner tunic is made in a style similar to a karate gi, is worn tucked into the pants, and is only visible at the neckline and wrists when outer tunic is worn. The inner tunic should be somewhat loose-fitting, but still follow the contours of the upper body, not unlike the fit of a mens’ fitted style dress shirt.

As with the outer tunic, the inner tunic is worn with left front flap folded across right. Each flap may be secured to the inner tunic at the opposite side-seams with deep brown string-ties or velcro. There is a 1.5” wide folded edging/facing along each side of the front-opening flaps. When inner tunic is fastened, the neckline should form a v-neck just slightly below the Adam’s apple.

The lower sleeves of the inner tunic are “ruched sleeves”, which appear bunched at the wrists up to mid-forearm. Ruched sleeves are made by cutting lower sleeve pattern to extend approximately 10” to 12” past the fingertips when measured against the length of your arm, with the area from elbow to wrist being only slightly bigger in circumference than your forearm so that the fit is close to skin. The lower/cuff opening of sleeve should be just large enough in circumference for hand to fit through very snugly, but not so loose that the sleeve can slip over hand and hang loose. This causes the extra 10” to 12” of extra sleeve length to fall neatly in bunched foldings from wrist to mid forearm when inner tunic is worn. The sleeves should be hemmed at the ends with a narrow folded single-stitched shirt-tail hem approx 1/8” wide or less.

The original screen-used inner tunic fabric was a lightweight marocain crepe called "stretch crepe", from Satin Moon Fabrics in San Fransisco, CA, and the color is Sable # 194. The "marocain" is a woven crepe fabric with a wavy rib effect in the weft resulting from the use of high twist yarns - it has a raised, wavy texture which appears slightly lighter and/or weathered in color. The screen used inner tunic fabric can no longer be purchased at Satin Moon Fabrics since they closed in 2017. The only known source of the screen used fabric is Eva Vanecek. Fabrics which approximate the same color and texture are acceptable - the closest color match would be DMC floss #3371)

Screen accurate material -
https://www.etsy.com/shop/EvaVanecekDesigns

Additional note - The screen used inner tunic was not made completely of the same material, and appears to use a cheaper material for everything but the collar and left sleeve where the screen accurate material is used. You can see the same construction on Obi-Wan's inner tunic in the behind the scenes shot. The right sleeve of the inner tunic is in fact full length on the screen used costume as seen here at 4:44:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00flOb0YJMI&fbclid=IwAR0R4NM1gA4uE7fvK17sBeg0BMphbQMopvW3ZmyexHyL6DA5oZwCA3ACUB4


OUTER TUNIC (from 501st CRL):
Open waffle/crinkle weave with gauze-like texture, heavy cotton equivalent material, karate gi or kimono style cut for the upper portion, and is mid-thigh length. It is of very similar construction to that of the inner tunic with no visible enclosures
Dark brown in color but must be darker in color than the inner tunic, but the same color as the cloth tabards and obi
There is a collar formed by a hem along the opening of the tunic that runs to the waistline and ends underneath the obi
The sleeves are inset and gathered (tucked) at the shoulders, and do not excessively hang off the shoulders
The sleeves are bell styled which get larger as they progress down the arm, and are approximately knuckle length
The right sleeve is tucked into, but does not appear excessively baggy at the top of the glove
OPTIONAL Level two certification:
The tunic folds left over right for closure and closes around mid-chest level to allow the inner tunic closure to be noticeable under the neck
The collar is approximately 2" in width
The crinkled texture is in linear folds that run as follows:
On the collar the folds run parallel with the edge of the opening
On the sleeves the folds run vertically from shoulder to wrist
On the front and back of the tunic the folds run vertically head to toe
The shoulder tuck of the sleeves are approximately 1.5"-2" in depth
To make it easier to tuck into the glove, the right sleeve can shortened to remove most of the unneeded material that would be tucked into the glove
The tunic is made from two different pieces and includes a waist seam that is hidden underneath the obi and joins the upper portion and the skirt (section of the tunic below the obi)

Additional outer tunic info from Rebel Legion costume standards (not shown in the 501st CRL):
The hem on the bottom of the OT and the end of the left sleeve should be approximately 1 inch wide. Lighter cotton gauze fabrics should be doubled or lined. The end of the left sleeve opening should be at least 1.5 times the width of the hand when spread out, measuring from tip of thumb to tip of pinky finger.

OUTER TUNIC (from 2013 thread):
The outer tunic is also similar to an A-line karate gi, and is basically the same tunic style as Simplicity costume pattern #5840, only with shoulder-tucks added and a slight increase of the flare to the skirt part of tunic from waistline to hem. There is a 2” folded facing/edging along the front openings, and the fabric texture runs parallel with the edge of the front openings. As with the inner tunic, the outer tunic is worn with front opening flaps left-over right. The fabric texture of sleeves should run vertically from shoulder to wrist; and on the front and back of the tunic the texture should run vertically along the torso. The sleeve-length should be cut approximately 5” longer than arm length plus 2” hem allowance, and then inset at the shoulder seams to form recessed shoulder-tucks. The sleeve extends to the knuckles when hemmed, and has a wide bell-bottom. Right sleeve is worn tucked into the top of the glove. The outer tunic length should extend to mid-thigh when hemmed. There is a waist seam which should run horizontally around entire waistline of tunic, and the facing/edging of front openings ends at the waist seam on each front opening flap.

The screen-used outer tunic fabric was made from a very dark brown, cotton loose waffle/crinkle weave. The actual screen-used fabric is currently unavailable, therefore the closest approximation is called "Handwoven Natural Fabric" from The Drharma Trading Company. (DharmaTrading.com) It is a white 100% cotton loose-weave medium-weight homespun fabric which must be pre-washed in hot water several times and then dyed. When pre-washed, the weave tightens into a very similar crinkle-weave pattern to the screen-used tunic fabric. Another close alternative is cotton Calcutta cloth, which also may be dyed to a deep brown. When dyed, the color should match DMC floss #3371. ~ Optional Tunic-Sleeve Modification - For fit and comfort when glove is worn, the right sleeve length may be cut to mid forarm, then gathered and sewn to a very snug form-fitting black lycra sleeve which extends from mid-forearm down to wrist. The lycra sleeve portion is then tucked out of sight into the glove, and tunic sleeve is slightly bloused over edge of glove. This was the case in the original screen-used tunic.

Additional notes: The most commonly used current material is a double cotton crinkle gauze and is a very close match. The screen accurate material I don't believe has ever been sourced. The color is dark brown, not black, and sometimes has a red/purple tinge to it. The promotional shots should not be used as color reference as they have been heavily doctored making Anakin's costume appear much darker. Also, it's common idea to line the outer tunic with a polyester material in the same color as the crinkle gauze to keep it from being see-through. It can also be double-lined with the same material as well. Also, if you look at the video posted above you can see the stretch sleeve construction on the screen used costume. There are lots of makers doing the soft parts, Robert Howton and Eva Vanecek being two of the best. Here is a link to the most commonly used fabric, and to a few of the well known makers:

https://www.moodfabrics.com/dusty-brown-double-cotton-gauze-320441

http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=74250

https://www.etsy.com/shop/EvaVanecekDesigns

CLOTH TABARDS (from 501st CRL):
Made of the same material and are the same color as the outer tunic and obi
Same length as the outer tunic in front, but end underneath the obi in the back
Form a "Y" shape in the front in which the lower portion of the "Y" hangs below the obi where they run parallel to one another, and the top portions do not overlap one another
Form a "V" shape in the back since they end underneath the obi, and do not overlap one another
In terms of width, the tabards extend from the folded edging/hem on the outer tunic to approximately two inches off the shoulders with each tabard in its entirety being the same width
OPTIONAL Level two certification:
The crinkled texture is in linear folds that run parallel to the length of the tabard
The cloth tabards may extend out slightly farther than the leather tabards at the shoulder
There is a waist seam on the tabards that is hidden by the obi in full costume which allow it to have this "Y" and "V" shape in the front and back

CLOTH TABARDS (from 2013 thread):
Made from the same fabric as the outer tunic, with the texture running vertically. These are the same length as the outer tunic. Cloth tabards are 6” wide. In the front, there is a waist seam and lower tabard flaps which extend to the same hemline length as the lower tunic. In the back, the cloth tabards end at the waistline, and may be attached to the outer tunic via velcro or heavy duty snaps which are hidden on the underside of the tabards.


OBI (from 501st CRL):
Made of the same material and color as the outer tunic and cloth tabards
In terms of width, it extends approximately 1.5"-2" above and below the belt
Is closed in the back via Velcro
OPTIONAL Level two certification:
The crinkled texture is linear folds that run diagonally

OBI (from 2013 thread):
Made from the same fabric as the outer tunic. The fabric texture should run on the diagonal. Folds and wrinkles which match the screen-used obi are optional, and may be hand-sewn into position along the midline of the obi. If velcro is used to secure the obi, as opposed to a traditional Japanese wrapped and tucked obi, velcro must not be visible on the outside surfaces of obi. Pattern for obi may be adapted from Simplicity tunic pattern #5840.

LINK TO THREAD: https://www.facebook.com/groups/anakinbuilders/permalink/817790135402497/


Last edited by The_Auto_Tech (Cody Templeton) on Fri Mar 06, 2020 5:06 am; edited 2 times in total
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The_Auto_Tech (Cody Templeton)
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Joined: 09 Jun 2019
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LEATHER TABARDS (from 501st CRL):
Fine grain leather, or leather-like material, is a simple cut, and includes a shoulder and waist seam
Dark brown color
The tabards are lined/backed with the same material
Form a "Y" shape in the front and in the back with the lower portions of both "Y"s hanging below the obi where they run parallel to one another, and the top portions do not overlap one another
The tabards extend below the outer tunic by approximately 3"-5" but not past the knee, and the front may slightly extend farther down than the back
In terms of width, the tabards extend from the folded edging/hem on the outer tunic to approximately 2" off the shoulders with each tabard in its entirety being the same width
OPTIONAL Level two certification:
The tabards are fine grained sheepskin leather.
There is a waist seam on the tabards that is hidden by the obi in full costume which allow it to have this "Y" shape.

LEATHER TABARDS (from 2013 thread):
The leather tabards are each 6.75” wide, and are double-backed, self-lined, leather on both sides. For smaller body types, tabard width can be decreased to as low as 6”, for larger builds, it can be increased to as much as 7.5”.
There is a seam at top of shoulders, and a waist seam. The color is a very dark brown, matched to DMC floss #3371. The screen-used leather was a fine-grained sheepskin leather rather than cowhide, however, either sheepskin or a fine-grained cowhide leather is acceptable. The leather tabards extend 3" longer than the outer tunic in the front and back. For proper fit, the leather tabards may be attached to the cloth tabards with hidden velcro or snaps on the underside of the tabbards at the waistline, either in front, or back, or both.

Additional information: It's been agreed upon that the leather tabards, glove, and boots should all be very close to the same shade of dark brown. I would not necessarily follow the tabard width or length ideas on the thread from 2013, but use them as an idea. The CRL sizing seems quite a bit more accurate and makes more sense. People with broad or narrow shoulders will need to see a lot more customization in the sizing in the width. I have broad shoulders for my body size so I needed to go wider on the tabards to get the 2" extension off the shoulders. If I followed the thread from 2013 my tabards would be too narrow. I have been unable to source a maker for lamb/sheep/goatskin leather tabards. All of the leather people I talked to said they would not do it from lambskin/sheepskin/goatskin due to durability reasons, or that they cannot get hides large enough to make the tabards, or that there just isn't an availability for them. I went with the next best option, which is fine grain calfskin, which looks very similar. At this point most people are securing their leather tabards from Robert Howton (Woodman) from the Rebel Legion forum or from Custom Props.

http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=74250

https://www.custom-props.com/costumes-props/anakin-skywalker-rots/

GLOVE (from 501st CRL):
Made of the same material and color as the leather tabards, and is approximately 3/4 forearm length
Three silver buckles are located on the top of the arm each with a corresponding ribbed rubber strap on the underside of the arm and they are non-functional buckles
Raised ribbing runs across the back of the hand perpendicularly to the arm while smaller ribbing runs between the straps and buckles in the same direction
OPTIONAL Level two certification:
The glove is made from dark brown fine grained sheep skin leather
OPTIONAL Level three certification:
The stitching on the fingers is external
There is 9 ribbed sections on the back of the hand
There is 3 sections with smaller ribbing that contain three ribbed sections each with one directly adjacent to the last large ribbed section on the back of the hand in front of the first buckle in addition to the two between the buckles
The opening of the glove has a single closing stitch

GAUNTLET GLOVE (from 2013 thread):
Dark brown leather gauntlet with the screen-used glove being made of sheepskin, with three padded sections which run around the circumference of the gauntlet, and two rows of stitching between each padded section, each row 1/16” apart from the other. Three silver buckles are along the outer (dorsal) side of gauntlet/forearm, centered in each padded section. Weathering/tarnishing to match screen-used buckles is optional. The original screen-used buckles were from a pair of Sidi motorcycle boots.

Gauntlet has three folded-edge leather straps which seat along the raised/padded sections and connect to the D-loops on the sides of the buckles. Each leather strap is 1.5” wide. Length of strap should be adequate to fasten to one side D-ring of the metal buckles and run around the circumference of the gauntlet to fasten at the other D-ring of the buckle. Three 1” wide strips of black, flat, ribbed/finned rubber threshhold gasket are glued along the leather straps which run across the underside (ventral surface) of the gauntlet forearm. The screen-worn style of black gasket material had 7-fins/ribs.

On the back of the hand area, the glove has a pentagon-shaped field with raised sewn channels which run horizontally across back of hand, from the knuckles to the wrist. Each channel is sewn 0.25” apart, and is filled with very thin aquarium tubing to give it a raised “flak-padding” look, then all tubing-filled channels are sewn shut at the sides.

Additional notes: I'm not sure if I agree with the aquarium tubing under the backside of the glove. I think as long as it's sewn properly it'll give the proper raised sections just like my glove shows. Otherwise I think the sizing and construction details just do a good job of expanding upon what the CRL states. At this point most people are securing their gloves from LikeLinda or Custom Props.

https://www.custom-props.com/costumes-props/anakin-skywalker-rots/

https://www.etsy.com/shop/LikeLinda

LINK TO THREAD: https://www.facebook.com/groups/anakinbuilders/permalink/820026878512156/
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The_Auto_Tech (Cody Templeton)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BELT (from 501st CRL):
Leather, or leather-like material, and is made up of two layers. The large belt is approximately 2.25" wide with the narrow top belt approximately 0.75" wide and positioned in the horizontal center of the large belt
Deep brown, lighter than the tabards, glove, and boots in color
The buckle is silver and of the rectangular snap closure type
The top belt is held in place with a series of raised silver studs/posts that have spherical endings. There are four sets in total, two at each location with one above and one below the top belt, and each set is positioned an equal distance from the other
It fastens in the back with Velcro hidden under a square belt keeper of the same material as the belt
OPTIONAL Level two certification:
Both belts are leather with a smooth grain that is aged
There is a belt keeper on top belt on both sides of the buckle with both keepers being of the same material as the belts
There is incised lines at the top and bottom of the top belt approximately 0.25" from each edge
There is four incised lines on the large belt: two above the top belt, and two below as shown very near each edge
The silver studs/posts are screw type Sam Browne buttons
OPTIONAL Level three certification:
Everything but the leather pouch is vertically centered on the belt
When wearing the belt, the silver studs/posts are placed as follows: the two sets in the front is positioned forty-five degrees along the belt to the left and right of the buckle; similarly, the two sets in the back is positioned forty-five degrees to the left and right of the keeper. Therefore from the center of your body, they are ninety degrees away from each other along the belt

BELT (from 2013 thread):
Two layered belt made of deep brown leather which is at least 1/8” thick. Outer layer is 2.25" wide, and smaller belt worn centered on top of that is 0.75" wide. The narrow belt is held in place with silver stud rivets, one above and one below. There are four pairs of stud rivets spaced approximately 8” to either side of center of front and back of belt. The buckle is chromed silver, rectangular, approx 1” wide x 2” long, and has side press-buttons and a snap closure.

Additional notes - Anakin's belt buckle has a specific shape to it that can be seen in the pictures. I don't trust the CRL where it states everything is vertically centered on the belt because it's not. The Covertec clip goes on the main belt, which means it'll sit on the top portion of the belt. You can also see in the pictures the food capsules don't quite extend all the way to the bottom of the belt either. The boxes are closely centered minus the leather one, which seems to sit low. If your boxes are functional then they won't be able to be centered because of the clip placement so they don't interfere with the lids. I wouldn't be overly concerned about this though, as the stuff will move a bit during wear. As long as all the correct stuff is there and the right size I highly doubt your GML would ever give you an issue. At this point the two places I can recommend for a belt and pouch is Robert Howton, or Paul Haga:

http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=74250

https://www.etsy.com/shop/PHProps


POUCH AND BOXES (from 501st CRL):
There is one pouch and two boxes on the belt
The pouch is leather, or leather-like material, and is a snap closure style. It is approximately twice as tall as the large belt and half as thick as the boxes.
It is placed just forward of the right hip with two food capsules in front of and behind it, and the top almost lines up with the top of the large belt
The two boxes are both resin and one is red brown in color, and the other is larger and a medium brown in color. The red brown box resembles a "treasure chest" type shape, and contains a single elliptical brass/gold colored button in its center. The box is positioned on the wearer's back right side of the belt and is smaller than the height of the large belt.
The larger resin box has a design similar to that of the one pictured and has two small single brass/gold colored buttons. The box is positioned on the wearer's back left side of the belt, and is approximately the height of the large belt

OPTIONAL Level two certification:
The pouch is leather and has a pattern of scored vertical lines on the flap
The red brown box is non-ribbed and has a smooth texture
The larger box is ribbed

POUCHES (from 2013 thread):
Leather pouch - tall snap-closure flap-top vertical style pouch made of deep brown/dark maroon stained thick leather. Dimensions are approximately 0.875” thick, 5.375" tall, 3" wide. The flap lid has a semi-circular lower edge which snaps closed 1.25" from bottom of pouch on front surface. The pouch leather is adorned with vertical thin-line scorings which are 0.25” apart.
Grapple-hook pouch - reddish dark brown rectangular pouch with convex curved sides. Dimensions are 2.375" tall x 4.25" wide x 1.375" thick. The pouch can be functional or simply a closed prop, made of either resin or wood. Pouch lid is aligned with body of pouch, hinged at the back, and constitutes approximately 1" of the pouch's height. Centered on the front of the pouch is an embossed/recessed bevel-edge rectangular area 1.7" wide x 2" tall, which runs vertically over both body and lid of pouch. The opening/axis line of the pouch is 1" down from the top edge, and centered on the front of the pouch in the embossed area at this axis is a weathered/tarnished brass/gold oval metal disc which is 1/2" tall x 1.375" wide.
Wide pouch – rectangular, either leather or wood, with snap-lid closure. Dimensions are 4.25" tall x 5.125" wide x 1.7" thick. Heat-scored/embossed into the pouch across the front surface are three 0.5" wide rounded-bottom gulleys which run diagonally across at approx 30-degrees and are parallel to each other; gulleys are stained a slightly deeper brown; The pouch lid folds over from back of pouch and across the top, curving to a 3" wide flap at the center of the pouch front; this flap snaps closed with two 0.5" diameter domed snaps which are centered on the flap and placed 1.75" from each other. Snaps are stained or painted the same color as the leather of the pouch.

Additional information - It states in the CRL the leather pouch should be the same color as the glove, boots, and leather tabards but I believe this to be incorrect. All the pictures I've seen is that it's a match to the medium brown color of the belt. The only place I can recommend for accurate resin boxes is Robert Howton:

http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=74250

FOOD CAPSULES (from 501st CRL):
Eight in total: two gold, two silver, two copper, and two gunmetal, and are cylindrical in shape
Each is approximately as tall as the large belt and approximately 0.5" in width
One of each color is placed on the belt at the left hip (4 total). Two are placed in front of the leather pouch on the right side of the belt, while the remaining two are placed behind the pouch. All capsules placed at each of the three locations are touching each other with no spacing between them
OPTIONAL Level two certification:
On both sides, the capsules are placed in the following order from front to back: silver, copper, gold, and gunmetal
OPTIONAL Level three certification:
The original capsules were Staedtler Liquid Roller Point Pens with a 0.4375" diameter hemisphere glued to the opening.

FOOD CAPSULES (from 2013 thread):
There are eight food capsules - two in antique-gold finish, two in silver matte finish, two in copper matte finish, and two in gunmetal grey matte finish. The original screen-used food capsules were made from Staedtler Liquid Roller Gel pen caps with Plastruct 7/16" Hemispherical Vessel Heads glued into the open ends of the pen caps, giving them their domed appearance. The actual part number is Plastruct # VHH-14. The dimensions of the food capsule props once constructed are 2.25" length x 0.375" diameter. They are clipped onto the wide belt and arranged as shown in diagram below. Top edges of food capsules should be aligned roughly with the top of the tall comlink pouch.

Additional information - The only place offering screen accurate food capsules is Civilized Galactic:

https://www.etsy.com/shop/CivilizedGalactic


LIGHTSABER CLIP (from 501st CRL):
A rectangular Covertec clip as seen in the picture is present to secure the lightsaber
It is attached to the belt on the wearer's left hip
The Hasbro or circular/oval Covertec clips will not be approved

Additional information - The screen accurate Covertec clip can be purchased from Custom Saber Shop:

https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Covertec-Clip-P117.aspx


Summary of belt component positioning and material colors (from 501st CRL):
Belt component placement (buckle to keeper along wearer's right): Buckle - silver stud/post set - two food capsules - large leather pouch - two food capsules - silver stud/post set - red brown resin box - keeper
Belt component placement (buckle to keeper along wearer's left): Buckle - silver stud/post set - lightsaber clip - four food capsules - silver stud/post set - medium brown larger resin box - keeper
All of the colors of the materials in the various components of this costume are in the medium to dark brown range, which only a few components actually being medium brown
The outer tunic, cloth tabards, and obi are the same material and color; the inner tunic is lighter in color, while the pants are even lighter than the inner tunic
The leather tabards, glove, leather pouch, and boots are approximately the same color; the belt is lighter in color

The following list identifies the components which correspond to the numeric labels in the picture below.
1. Buckle
2. Belt keepers for top belt (2 total)
3. Lightsaber clip - is placed as indicated by the * between items marked 4 and 5, and not where it currently is; as a result #5 (set of four food capsules) would be moved toward the back of the belt some.
4. Silver stud/post sets (4 sets total)
5. Food capsule sets (3 total "sets" but 8 individual capsules total)
6. Large leather pouch
7. Larger resin box
8. Red brown resin box
9. Belt keeper

LINK TO THREAD: https://www.facebook.com/groups/anakinbuilders/permalink/820674435114067/


Last edited by The_Auto_Tech (Cody Templeton) on Sat Mar 07, 2020 6:21 am; edited 1 time in total
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The_Auto_Tech (Cody Templeton)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 5:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BOOTS (from 501st CRL):
Leather, or leather-like material, and have a medium gloss shine with no visible laces or zipper
Dark brown, similar in color to the leather tabards and glove
They have a rounded toe, smooth textured appearance, vertical ribbing from above the instep to the knee, and the ribbing does extend past the top of the boot
The zipper is located on the front of the boot underneath the vertical ribbing
Two horizontal 1" bands made of the same material as the boot are below the top of the boot and spaced approximately 1" apart from each other; with a third band at ankle height
OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
The boots, vertical ribbing, and horizontal bands are leather
There is 6 vertical ribs of equal width

BOOTS (from 2013 thread):
Dark brown heavy-grade leather, with front-zip closure which runs from top of foot over shin and to top edge of boot. Boots have a separate shin-guard/spat which attaches to the boot with velcro and hides zipper. Spat/shinguard fastens to boot just above the instep/arch, covering where the boot zipper begins, and extends to 1” past the top of the boot. Top of boot under spat extends just to knee. Spat width should wrap to mid-sides of each lower leg, and the spat should be made of vertical strips of leather stitched 1” apart from each other with rough leather edges showing at the seam. Two horizontal 1" bands of leather are below the top of the spat, running around entire boot. These bands are spaced 1.25” apart from each other vertically, and a third horizontal band runs around the boot at the ankle. Each of these three horizontal bands should fasten closed with an overlap which has velcro on the underside of the band. On each band there are two 1” wide leather loops which hide the velcro areas and reinforce the closure of the band. Loops are placed roughly 3” apart, on outer side of boot. At the heel of the boot are three parallel horizontal ridged seams, each approx 3” long, and each spaced approx 0.5” apart from the other.

Additional information - I would not agree with the 2013 thread on the 3" spacing of the loops around the straps. There's no way they can be spaced that far apart with how wide the spat is. Otherwise I think the sizing seems pretty accurate. The other issue we have is no details on the soles. They are a lug sole for sure, and it seems the original was made by Vibram. My Carlos Diaz boots from 2008 appear to have the correct soles on them when compared to the screen used costume. It's completely preference if you would like to do the clean look that the JDOS boots provide, or the weathered look that the Diaz boots provide. Some people choose to add insole lifts to the boots to make them taller which is also allowed. Lastly, it's not been proven if the strap loops are attached to the body of the boots or if they float freely, but IMO they are attached. Diaz also is just starting to make boots again, but they aren't nearly as accurate as his originals. Here's a link to the JDOS boots, the boot shapers I use, and the insole lifts I use:

https://www.facebook.com/JDOSprops/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013WJYPK6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWYNSV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PANTS (from 501st CRL);
Lightweight cotton twill or equivalent material
Medium brown, lighter in color than the outer tunic, appear somewhat baggy, and tucked into the boots.
OPTIONAL Level two certification:
The color of brown is close to that of the inner tunic, but is in fact lighter
OPTIONAL Level three certification:
The color of the original is close to Anchor floss 0382.
The original pants were Dickies - Model 874 work pants, mahogany in color

PANTS (from 2013 thread):
Medium mahogany brown, made of lightweight cotton twill. Pants are tucked into boots and only very slightly bloused over boot-tops. Side seams on legs must be single-stitch dress-pant or work-pant style, not double-stitched casual or blue jean stitching. The commonly used pants by most 501st Anakin costumers is Dickies Flat-front Work Pants # 874, and the color is Brown/Mahogany. A comparable style/brand of work pants to Dickies Flat-front Work Pants may be worn, but the pants must have no visible tags or labels stitched on, and no pockets or flaps on knees or sides of legs. The color should match Anchor floss # 0382. If a belt is worn with pants, it must be a lightweight cloth webbing/military style belt, must match the exact color of pants and must be fastened with snaps or velcro, not a buckle.

Additional information - The Dickies 874 in mahogany have been out of production for a long time and can be hard to come across. Many have been approved on the brown 874's though as well. Your best bet is to keep an eye on eBay for them to pop up. It's suggested to hem the pants slightly so there is less to tuck into the boots, and to also potentially buy them a size up since they do seem to run a little smaller than normal. It's known that Obi-Wan's pants actually had stirrups at the bottoms to keep them pulled tight and from being baggy, but this is not the case with Anakin's pants as his are always shown to be baggy. Also, Obi-Wan's pants use button-end suspenders to keep them from falling down, and it was shown in an old magazine that Anakin's pants also had the suspenders as well. This construction was actually used on Kylo Ren's pants in the sequels as well. Links to my suspenders and buttons:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07429GDQ5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.joann.com/dritz-no-sew-dungaree-buttons-4-pkg/prd34413.html

LINK TO THREAD: https://www.facebook.com/groups/anakinbuilders/permalink/824872681360909/


Last edited by The_Auto_Tech (Cody Templeton) on Sat Mar 07, 2020 5:32 pm; edited 4 times in total
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The_Auto_Tech (Cody Templeton)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LIGHTSABER (from 501st CRL):
The lightsaber is a Master Replicas, Hasbro, or a custom built hilt (modified Graflex flash handle)
The metal has a chrome appearance.
The grips extend all the way to the middle section
Other details resemble the screen accurate hilt:
Gold section on emitter box
Gold lever on emitter box
Center band detail
2 knobs towards emitter
Emitter detail
The lightsaber is only required as long as it's in compliance with the applicant’s local laws
OPTIONAL Level two certification:
The lightsaber is capable of being belt worn with the emitter facing downwards with detachable or no blade
The lightsaber is a 1:1 scale of the lightsaber used in the film

LIGHT SABER (from 2013 thread):
Saber hilt must be screen-accurate and to correct scale. May be either a Master Replicas Anakin EpIII, a custom build, or a modified Graflex.

Additional information - Many of the recommended sabers in this list have long since been out of production. The upside though is that there are more accurate versions available with better construction and electronics. The gold standards currently would either be a Korbanth Skinnyflex or an Ultimate Works SlimFlex. Sabers nowadays have many different options for electronics, lighting, and sound along with detachable blades. There is a chance you can still find one of the Hasbro or MR sabers on eBay, but they sometimes command high prices that aren't always worth it. It's up to the end user to decide how heavily they would like to invest into their lightsaber setup. The only rule that I know of is if you do have a hilt with a blade that lights up it needs to be a medium blue color that resembles Anakin's saber in RotS.

There's many different ways to transport the saber and blade as well. My hilt and saber parts are carried in a tactical case and the blade in an art tube with a towel. This keeps things protected during transport. Links to the saber, case, and tube:

https://www.korbanth.com/collections/empty-installable-sabers/products/empty-skinnyflex-saber-preorder

https://www.harborfreight.com/2800-weatherproof-protective-case-medium-63926.html

https://www.michaels.com/plastic-telescopic-art-tube-by-artists-loft/10387987.html

LINK TO THREAD: https://www.facebook.com/groups/anakinbuilders/permalink/820079428506901/
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The_Auto_Tech (Cody Templeton)
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Joined: 09 Jun 2019
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2020 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ROBE (from 501st CRL):
Lightweight fabric, medium brown in color
Floor-length, with large, mid-finger length, bell-like sleeves with deep hems, and a large hood
The material of the hood is gathered at the neckline, with two small pleats at the front
There is no front facing - the front edge of the robe and hood are short hemmed at approximately 1"
The robe is not lined
The sleeves are inset and gathered at the shoulders and are shoulder tucked just like the outer tunic

ROBE (from 2013 thread):

The Anakin robe is unlike any of the other Jedi or Sith cloaks. The hood is slightly larger, and hangs down to mid-torso when hood is not being worn. The robe is floor-length, unlined, with a 2-2.5” hem. Robe has very spacious bell-bottom sleeves with 3-4” hems. Hemmed sleeve edge should extend to approximately 7” past fingertips when arms are at sides, and sleeve edge should angle downward towards the back of body, so that the back end of sleeve hem hangs approximately 10” below fingertips when arms are down by sides.

The hood is gathered at the neckline evenly, with fold-over pleats. A narrow casing which is approximately 1” thick serves as piping to cover the edge where the pleated hood is sewn to the robe. The pleats run the entire length around the neckline of robe and end at each edge of front robe-opening. There is no front facing on the front-openings of robe, and the front edges are hemmed at 1".

The original screen-used robe was made from a very unique and specific weave of wool which is no longer being manufactured. The closest substitute is wool crepe, in a color which matches DMC floss #3371, and of a medium to light weight so that the robe will flow easily.

ROBE (from Rebel Legion standards):
Dark brown, wide, non-lined, hooded robe with full sleeves and body
Wool fabric preferred
Sleeves have deep hems that are approximately 4"-5"
Front of robe and hood are short hemmed to approximately 1"
Hood is gathered around the neck
Deep shoulder tucks measuring at least 3" or greater

Additional information - The biggest issue I usually see with most Anakin robes is that they are not big enough. If you look at the pictures his sleeves and hood are a fair amount larger than other Jedi and Sith, which is why the hood has all the extra pleats it in. Really the entire robe is oversized comparatively. The fingertip length is referencing the length of the sleeve along the top of it. The length of the bottom of the sleeve is certainly 15-ish cm longer. Between the 501st CRL, the 2013 thread, and the RL standards it gives you a pretty good idea of the construction of the robe. I know there are some additional construction details missing as far as the seam construction, but I will update that as I can gather the info.

The color of the robe appears to be slightly lighter than the color of the pants from what I have seen, meaning it's a medium brown color. I believe that we have been able to source the screen used fabric for the robe, which also happens to be the correct color without having to dye it. Here is a link to it:

https://www.moodfabrics.com/italian-chocolate-creped-wool-double-cloth-wool-suiting-fw11258?fbclid=IwAR1tNQ7LJsL4R53YLgRuN1MC7mBJApTunVGxOQgweMranvjH1L__zcHQTrA

Another thing that has been added in recent years are blade pockets to the side seams inside the robe. This makes it so that when at an event the saber blade can be removed from the hilt, placed in a hidden pocket inside the robe, and the hilt hung on the belt. My personal robe has two of these pockets, and was made by Jayden Moore:

https://www.facebook.com/jayden.moore.399488

https://www.facebook.com/groups/anakinbuilders/permalink/855885154926328/

LINK TO THREAD: https://www.facebook.com/groups/anakinbuilders/permalink/822795388235305/
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