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Major Kalonia Tunic Vest Pattern
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Archivist32 wrote:
Well, the Aus$ tanked against the $US so I have to buy a wig on shore. So what do you think of this wig?

https://www.easiwigs.com.au/May-Noriko-Wigs-p/ew-6465.htm

Regards,
Archivist32


The style should work- that seems suuuper pricey, though!
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2019 10:07 am    Post subject: The Modified McCall's M7575 Reply with quote

Hi Everyone,
I have been to see my tailor today and here are the photos from my modified McCall's M7575 pattern:

Front:


Side:


Back:


I have asked my tailor to make the buttons face inwards on the placket and not show. She will make the shirt and sleeves a bit shorter too.

Is there any other modifications you would suggest? I've done the best I can in getting this shirt to look like Dr. Kalonia's. Will this shirt pass registration as it is?

Please write a reply with your comments by 23 August 2019. After this date it will not be possible to suggest any modifications.



Kind regards,

Archivist 32
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2019 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good! My only suggestion is to have her widen the cuffs. If you are not planning on tucking your shirt in, I'd also make sure the bottom does not show below your vest. Smile

You can see how wide the cuffs are here:


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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2019 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, my best guess it to double the width of the cuffs. Do you agree?
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2019 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Archivist32 wrote:
Okay, my best guess it to double the width of the cuffs. Do you agree?


I think that's a good estimate. Smile

Side note, when you submit the application, I recommend to try and use a different hosting site? The ads on photobucket make it a pain to load pictures hosted there. I personally use private imgur albums, and I know there is one (bb something) that a lot of the non-US based folks use.
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2019 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Rebel Lady,
Here's a photo of the new sleeve cuff which has been doubled in width:

New sleeve cuff. by Archivist32 Traveller, on Flickr

I think this shirt is just about finished now except for the buttons.

Regards,

Archivist32
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2019 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cuff looks great! Smile
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2019 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now, it's time for the raw vest pattern reveal. This is how the pattern looks without the shaping. Note: There are no bust to hip dart on either of the vest fronts and no pockets. There is no shaping of the side seams. Also, there is no back center seam and no shoulder to hip darts on the back. These will be added later. This is just how the vintage pattern looks with the front overlap added.

Front.
Major Kalonia vest update. by Archivist32 Traveller, on Flickr

Side:

Major Kalonia vest update. by Archivist32 Traveller, on Flickr

Should I get my tailor to take out the bust darts and put in side shaping?

Back:

Major Kalonia vest update. by Archivist32 Traveller, on Flickr

I don't need any help with the back, as it's really easy to see what needs to be done to match the back of Dr. Kalonia's vest. Do you have any comments on the length of the vest?

I am looking forward to your comments and I'll pass them on to my tailor.

P.S The pants are the one's my tailor finished this costume. The pants have been shaped below the knees so they will not ride up and come out of my boots. They have a inside leg side seam with a zip and to help get them on and off. I've already posted photos of the finished shirt in earlier posts if you want to look at them.

Regards,

Archivist32.
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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2019 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you need to move the bust dart to the waist and add the lower dart.



I think its looking just a tiny bit long. Great progress though Smile


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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2019 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Empathy,
Thanks for your reply. Please clarify the following:
a) Vest length should finish on my hips or should it cover my bottom?

b) The bust dart should be turned 90 degrees and start at the bust point. What is the length of the bust dart? Does it end at my waist, or end at the top of my hips or continue all the way down front of the vest and end at the hem? For example, it is princess half seam? Or are these darts cresent shaped?

c) On the back, I know I have to add a centre back seam. The back darts will start at the should blades but where do the back darts end? Again, are they cresent shaped or a princess half seam?

Thanks for any information you can provide and I will pass it on to my tailor.

Regaards,

Archivist32
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Cosplay takes you from the ordinary to the extrodinary.

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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2019 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Empathy,
Thanks for your reply. Please clarify the following:
a) Vest length should finish on my hips or should it cover my bottom?

b) The bust dart should be turned 90 degrees and start at the bust point. What is the length of the bust dart? Does it end at my waist, or end at the top of my hips or continue all the way down front of the vest and end at the hem? For example, it is princess half seam? Or are these darts cresent shaped?

c) On the back, I know I have to add a centre back seam. The back darts will start at the should blades but where do the back darts end? Again, are they cresent shaped or a princess half seam?

Thanks for any information you can provide and I will pass it on to my tailor.

Regaards,

Archivist32
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Cosplay takes you from the ordinary to the extrodinary.

2019 - 8 Troops
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2019 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Empathy,
Thanks for your reply. Please clarify the following:
a) Vest length should finish on my hips or should it cover my bottom?

b) The bust dart should be turned 90 degrees and start at the bust point. What is the length of the bust dart? Does it end at my waist, or end at the top of my hips or continue all the way down front of the vest and end at the hem? For example, it is princess half seam? Or are these darts cresent shaped?

c) On the back, I know I have to add a centre back seam. The back darts will start at the should blades but where do the back darts end? Again, are they cresent shaped or a princess half seam?

Thanks for any information you can provide and I will pass it on to my tailor.

Regaards,

Archivist32
_________________
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Archivist 32 is based in New South Wales/ACT, Australia.

Cosplay takes you from the ordinary to the extrodinary.

2019 - 8 Troops
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2019 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dr. Kalonia's Vest Mark 2

I've been back to my tailor's and together we have made the following adjustments.

1. Taken out the side bust darts, added the bust dart shaping down the front from the bust and attached the pockets. Will the pockets have to be moved over to sit over the side front/back seams? I know I will have to make the vest be right side over left to match the character shots. This will be corrected in the final version.

2019-10-05_08-06-27 by Archivist32 Traveller, on Flickr


2. Side view
Dr. Kalonia vest MK 2 side by Archivist32 Traveller, on Flickr

Here's a comparison shot:

Dr. Kalonia Side by Archivist32 Traveller, on Flickr

3 Back view: The center back seam has been added along with the shaping darts.

Dr. Kalonia vest MK 2 side by Archivist32 Traveller, on Flickr

Any comments to help out with this vest design would be awesome! Then I can get the final copy underway. Looking forward to your replies. :-)

Regards,
Archivist32
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Cosplay takes you from the ordinary to the extrodinary.

2019 - 8 Troops
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Sair (Sarah Steele)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2019 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sharon, I've been looking for reference pics showing the side of her vest but I can't find any. I think it might require watching the movie and taking some screen shots.

Just can't tell if the pockets finish before the side seam or are sewn into it in any of the pictures I've seen/found.
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2019 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sair wrote:
Sharon, I've been looking for reference pics showing the side of her vest but I can't find any. I think it might require watching the movie and taking some screen shots.

Just can't tell if the pockets finish before the side seam or are sewn into it in any of the pictures I've seen/found.


These are all of the reference images we have:

https://imgur.com/a/L7XRewj

You can see the side seam running from under her arm in this image. The pocket appears to be placed over the seam.



We also have a good idea of how the vest fits her and how that same fit was achieved on the other similar costumes in the movie.

The other vests and jackets used shaping in the side seams to create a bit of a flair at the bottom and had princess seams in the back.





Sharon, you can see the length of the front bust dart in this image. It should be proportional to your body. The one you've added looks pretty good- it may extend up over the bust just a bit too far. Use the reference below to judge. I'd recommend having your tailor convert the back darts into princess seams as seen above because the fit will better match the references, but I think either would likely be approved. You can also see that her vest is mid-hip length. It does not fully cover her bottom. I think yours is still a bit too long.


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