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kman's Rebel Captain WIP
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kman ()
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2019 10:00 pm    Post subject: kman's Rebel Captain WIP Reply with quote

Tip o'the Hat to EvilShadow's thread for making me aware this costume existed. Smile

I've wanted to do a Captain Antilles for a while, but budgetary issues have prevented me from buying the tall brown riding boots I need for that, so it's been a back burner costume for... too long.

But now that I've discovered the Rebel Captain (Star Wars Miniatures Game version, I realize I can knock this out quite simply, since I already have so much of the costume, due to my RFT.

The Standard requires:

1. Screen accurate Fleet Trooper helmet

Done already, due to my RFT (ignore the RFT accessories in the photo):



2. Screen accurate Rebel Fleet Trooper Shirt

Done already, due to my RFT:



3. Black leather or leather-like mid-calf, flat or low heeled boots

Done already, due to my RFT (and x-wing pilot). Vintage German jack boots.



4. Khaki/tan pants with solid black stripe on outside of each leg

I have a pair of simple Khaki Dickie's flat-front pants that I never really wear (not cargo pants). Sewing on a black stripe should be incredibly simple.



5. Accurate khaki/tan jacket with brown shoulders (yoke) and four pockets in front.

I just ordered a Propper Men's BDU Coat Jacket for this. All I need to do is remove the middle buttons, modify the collar to a shorter Mandarin collar (as in EvilShadow's thread), and find some brown fabric that matches the brown used on the miniature figure.



6. Rank Badge consisting of a square silver background with five raised blue dots

I got lucky on this, and already happen to own one of these, since I picked up a couple of Rebel rank badges a few months back, including one for Captain Antilles, which just happens to be the same as for this costume:



7. Dark tan or light brown leather or leather like belt (Tandy Canyon tan or range Tan recommended) with silver rectangular or octagonal buckle.

Done already, due to my RFT:



Optional:

1. Accurate DH-17 and holster

Done already, due to my RFT:



And that's it!

As soon as I buy some appropriate brown fabric for the jacket shoulders, hack off the collar (and buttons), and add the black stripe to the pants, this one should be in the bag. I'm excited! And someday when I get the brown riding boots, perhaps this will make for an easy Captain Antilles conversion, too...

JUDGES: Should be the black stripe on the pants be actual black fabric, or would some 1" black grosgrain ribbon work? Both are pretty simple, but ribbon is that much simpler...
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Last edited by kman () on Wed May 08, 2019 1:53 am; edited 2 times in total
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kalani- just grab some of the wide width black bias tape to use as the stripe. I think I have enough yoke fabric leftover from mine that I can give you some and have enough left over for Brent's. When will I see you next?

One thing to note with the BDU jacket- the bottom pockets really should be bellows pockets. There are usually elbow patches on these jackets that should be removed, and one of those will have more than enough fabric to add a side and bottom strip to the existing pockets. I can show you how (still super easy).
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RebelLady wrote:
Kalani- just grab some of the wide width black bias tape to use as the stripe. I think I have enough yoke fabric leftover from mine that I can give you some and have enough left over for Brent's. When will I see you next?


So like 1" bias tape, or more? Antilles looks wider than that, maybe 2"? (although the standards don't specify) But this figurine might be narrower.

RebelLady wrote:
One thing to note with the BDU jacket- the bottom pockets really should be bellows pockets. There are usually elbow patches on these jackets that should be removed, and one of those will have more than enough fabric to add a side and bottom strip to the existing pockets. I can show you how (still super easy).


That does make it more complicated, but still doable. Hadn't noticed the reinforced elbows, but they should be easy enough to cut off. Odd that the upper pockets are bellows, but the bottom pockets only have an expansion on the outside edge.

I'm more worried about the pants, at this point. Now that I've laid them both out, the pants look a LOT ... greener ... than the shirt. I wouldn't have called that, just looking at them normally, but when they're right on top of each other, I think it looks a bit odd. I might have to shop a bit to find something closer.


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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They do have an expansion on the outside edge? If so, you should be ok. They looked like they were flush when I peeked earlier.
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kman ()
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RebelLady wrote:
They do have an expansion on the outside edge? If so, you should be ok. They looked like they were flush when I peeked earlier.


They do have a bellow, but only on the outside edge, oddly. The bottom is sewn flush. The top pockets have a normal bellows bottom (and side, on the outside edge only), so it's strange that the lower pockets only have that one side. But ok, I may or may not add that bottom expansion at some point, regardless, but good to know I don't necessarily have to.

Do you think the pants color is close enough? Just curious... I may replace them, regardless, too, as I'd be happier with something closer.

My April is too crazy to troop, unfortunately, so my next troop is May 4th (several on that date, but I don't know if you're coming to the more Northern troops or not). I'll also be at the Paul Biane Library troop, later in May. If you have some leftover, it's probably be good for the three of us to match! If it came from JoAnn's it probably easier that I just buy some of my own, if you happen to know what you bought. Else, if it's convenient to drop in the mail I'm happy to shoot you a few bucks. I'm really not in any hurry for this; I'm just glad it should be pretty easy and low cost. Smile
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2019 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been crazy busy, so this was back-burnered for a bit, but some progress and finally happened.

I started work on altering the BDU shirt. Removed the buttons from the front, and the two extras on the sleeves. Left one for the "tab" for now, but I'll look more deeply into altering that later.

I also whipped out the seam ripper and removed the elbow reinforcement patches. I need to re-stitch the seam where they were sewn in, still (annoying robust attachment they used, that's for sure!).



Next I want to cut down the collar. I'll probably get that done and re-sew the sleeves at the same time. I'm guestimating the mandarin collar should be about... 1.5" tall? Two inches seems too tall, and 1" seems too short.

After that, I think it's just a matter of sewing down the yoke fabric. Very Happy (RebelLady, I'll shoot you a message on that)

As for the pants, I wasn't happy with the color [mis-]match on those Dickie's pants. Fortunately, I found an inexpensive pair of Khakis at Walmart that were a great match. Flat front, stretch twill, should be nice and comfy. "George" brand.



Just need to pick up that bias tape for the black stripes and I should be in business! Check this color match, pretty darned close! (square scrap of fabric is one of the removed elbow panels from the BDU shirt) Certainly way closer than the Dickies pants were.



I'm fairly pleased with how this is finally starting to come together, despite the hiatus. Smile
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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2019 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moar progress!

Last night, I worked on the jacket quite a bit.

Step one was to close up the seams on the arms, from having removed the elbow patches. (*shakes first* at Propper for putting it right across a seam and sewing them INTO the seam!) A little fiddly, but not too bad. Not quite as tidy on the inside, but that's not a big concern.



Next up was modifying the collar into a Mandarin collar. Looking at as many photos as I could find online, plsu what others have done, I figured the collar looks like it's about 1.25-1.5" tall. So I measured up from the collar/neck seam 1.75", figuring about a 1/4" seam allowance when closing it back up, and marked the cut line:



Interesting, looking inside the collar. Interfacing on one side.



I pinned it all closed to make sure it still looked proportional. Yup!



... and stitched it all up. Not my best work evar, but it should suffice. Collar looks about right!



Seems a little long, possibly because it's a modified shirt designed to come together, instead of designed to wear open like most Star Wars garments?



After pondering that, I decided to see what it would look like if I pin the inner parts to shorten them a bit.

Since this jacket isn't designed to ever close, and there's a pretty big margin along the inner parts (designed to overlap on the original BDU shirt), I removed the button backing panel from inside (extra fabric that's totally unnecessary now). I folded the front edges to the seam line, and followed the line straight up to the collar. This should help the jacket lay open a bit more when wearing it.



I haven't sewn this yet, just pinned it. Still pondering if that's a good option.

Also, technically I could move the collar back about 3/4" - 1", finishing it off sort of the way the original shirt was, instead of it going straight up to the edge of the collar. Not sure about that, either.

Thoughts about thinning that middle section, as pictured, and about moving the edge of the collar back a little?

I think I might need to fold the edges of the sleeve in a touch, too, shortening them about 1/2", to eliminate the little tab for the sleeve button. (and the button) Has anyone else done this?

After these two little bits are resolved, I'll be ready to add the yoke to the shoulders, and this part will be done!

Meanwhile, onto the stripe on the pants. I'm going to make bias tape from some twill I bought, so I can get the width I want. Looking an pics of Antilles, and the miniature, I think that stripe is wider than the 1" max they sell pre-made bias tape in. Somewhere between at least 1.5" and 2", I think.
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 2:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got a little more work done.

I picked up one of the actual miniatures, so I'm not looking at someone else's cruddy auction photos, so I can get a better look. It's tinier than I had pictured! Actually easier to see detail in photos than in person. Here are mine, for reference:





Between this reference and others, I decided my pin work in the photo above, where the jacket is taken in slightly to open it, and goes straight up to the mandarin collar, is probably good. So I stitched that down. As soon as I get the shoulder fabric, this is going to be in good shape!



Next I started on the pants. I decided that 1.5" was the right width for the black stripes. 1" just looks way to thin, and 2" is way too much.

Naturally, they don't make 1.5" bias tape (or at least they don't carry it at JoAnn's), so I had to buy the fabric and prewash it. (Side note: How on earth do multiple employees in two separate JoAnn's have no idea what "cotton twill" is? WTF???) I even zigzagged the edges a bit so I didn't lose half the fabric when pre-washing it. (which I actually remembered to do this time... *pats back*)

And then I cut the bias tape. LOONG STRIPS. Ugh. "Perfectly straight" sucks, a lot.

And then I folded it all up, oh-so-precisely. Ugh.


(2.5" raw strip on the left, folded down to 1.5" width bias tape on the right!)

And then I decided my pants were the perfect length for dress shoes but I didn't want quite so much material stuffed into my boots, so I should obviously hem them up a bit, right? Ugh. (Not pictured)

And then I pinned my spiffy new 1.5" bias tape onto the pants. Ugh. So precise, centering right over the side seam all the way down.



And sewed the dang thing down. That kinda sucked, LOL. But I think I'm happy with the end result! Smile



Those jacket shoulders... and perhaps I'm actually done?
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its always tricky when you are altering a garment, as different collar styles have different construction methods, looks like you've done a good job though.

Have you sourced a fabric for the yoke? I think Kristina had some lck with sourcing some of the different yoke colours with the kona.
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tenebris wrote:
Its always tricky when you are altering a garment, as different collar styles have different construction methods, looks like you've done a good job though.

Have you sourced a fabric for the yoke? I think Kristina had some lck with sourcing some of the different yoke colours with the kona.


Thanks! I'm fairly pleased with how it's turning out so far.

Yes, Kristina (RebelLady) has some extra yoke fabric from the one she's making. I believe I'm supposed to get it from her when I see her at a troop this weekend. Smile If not, I'll have to shop for it online, unless I can get down to the garment district. I've seen nothing suitable at local JoAnn's, unfortunately.
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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2019 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yoke fabric acquired! Many thanks again to Rebel Lady. Smile

Looking at some reference photos, I basically eyeballed the approximate amount of space needed for the rank badge, to figure out the proportions needed, and drew a chalk line across the front, to make sure everything was lined up nice and straight.



All that done, I might do this over. I think I should have a little less space between the top and bottom of the rank badge. Bringing the fabric down 1/2"-1" should do it, I think. I'll make sure I have enough fabric, first, but I think I do.

No fancy process here, I just sort of winged it. I'll document this here, for those of us with less-than-professional sewing skills. I laid the jacket out flat, and pinned the fabric to the jacket, eyeballing about 1/2" extra around each side to fold under.



I cut out the initial fabric piece:



... and mirrored it for the other side: (sorry for the bad pic, but the concept still shows)



And then begins the pinning. Pretty straightforward, although the curve around the collar demanded some relief cuts. I hate curves like this, LOL:



I'll need to massage that collar curve a bit more as I sew it, I think.



Here's the whole thing pinned down, both sides:



It seems to work pretty well!



Of course, I'll probably re-do all of this, since I want to move it down a little farther, to reduce the space between the rank badge and the pocket. I need to pick up some thread that's a closer match, anyway, before I can start the actual sewing.

The reference images of Captain Antilles (not to mention the Miniature figure I'm starting with here) shows the rank badge aligned with the inside edge of the pocket, so I'll use that layout going forward.






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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2019 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This looks very good. I did the same thing when I made my Rogue One jacket. Which reminds me that I still have to sew the new yoke fabric onto mine. Smile
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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nearly done!

The jacket is essentially done.

I re-cut the front fabric to make it come down a little lower (had just enough!). Here it is mid-process, stitched down on one side, pinning the other. You can see the spacing above and below the rank badge is a little tighter now. Much happier.



Then I worked on the back, measuring down to make it about the same as the front, in terms of how far it comes down.



Same story as the front, in terms of cutting out the rough size piece and pinning it all down.



And then the yoke was FINALLY done!



This should be an easy costume to turn into Antilles, once I get the brown version of the RFT shirt. Smile Oh, and the boots. Sad

I'll see if I can take some full costume photos for submission, this evening. Smile
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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Application submitted.

Fingers crossed!


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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck with your application.
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