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Queen Amidala Red Invasion Gown
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abrookebrown24 ()
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 11:32 pm    Post subject: Queen Amidala Red Invasion Gown Reply with quote

Hello there!

I've been working like crazy on a new character, and I thought I'd better get busy and post on here. Hopefully I can get Flickr to host my photos okay. I'm aiming to get Amidala's red invasion gown wearable (if not approvable) for Star Wars Celebration in April.

I did a lot of research, and got some guidance from Naergi's Costuming site (thanks!). I designed my own patterns for the skirt, and did a mock-up with some old sheets.

Sheets Mock-up:
https://www.flickr.com/gp/152993744@N07/P5z3SH

I struggled with the pattern around the bodice, but after some trial and error I was able to put together a hoop skirt/dress out of muslin with the 24 sections. I like the overall shape, and modified it slightly to make it more form fitting. I also plan on adding more hoops as I get closer to finished with the actual red dress. I'm using 3/16" spring steel boning for the hoop skirt.

Dress patterns:
https://www.flickr.com/gp/152993744@N07/g60Mm2
Hoop dress:
https://www.flickr.com/gp/152993744@N07/9SV6px
https://www.flickr.com/gp/152993744@N07/GX0M34

I ordered my fabric from Mood Fabrics. For the main dress I ordered the Valentine Red Polyester Bengaline, and for the piping/tabards/collars I ordered the Valentine Red Solid Polyester Satin. I ordered lots of swatches, and I was really pleased with how the colors matched when I got the actual fabric. I highly recommend Mood!

I washed all my fabrics, and got to work making the piping that goes between all the sections. I set aside about 3.5 yards of the Satin for bias tape, but so far have only used about half of that, and it's made plenty. I started off with 100 feet of red paracord and a a cording foot on my sewing machine to put together the piping. I attempted to spool that huge mess, but instead just threw it in one of my many Amazon boxes. Smile I'm expecting to need over 200 feet of piping, so I'll be gearing back up to make another batch now that I've ordered more paracord.

Bias tape and cording:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152993744@N07/shares/tKq003

Finally started on the actual red material. Cut out 24 panels, and I've slowly been sewing them together with the piping between each panel. I've been using the cording foot on my sewing machine, which has made things a lot easier, but I still do multiple pins to keep everything from sliding around.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152993744@N07/shares/460u09

So far so good. Next project is to design the sleeves with the 16 panels.
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accioveronica (Veronica J)
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi! I saw your progress on the Padme FB group, and I'll say it again - your costume looks sooooo good! I'm excited to see your progress, and I wish the best of luck for you to finish it by Celebration! Amadalia

I do have one question - how many steel hoops are you using for the hoop skirt? I think using only one hoop is going to be difficult since the weight of the fur and the dress overall laying on top of the hoop skirt might be problematic. When I was walking in my Amidala that had a hoop skirt with 3 rings, the bottom kept getting caught on the floors and caving in, especially when I walked on carpets. I'd recommend to anyone attempting this costume to really reinforce their bottom ring for this reason.

Anyway, your costume is looking lovely so far and I can't wait to see it finished!
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is looking fantastic so far! I can only imagine how much time all of that bias tape and piping took, but it's paying off. Amadalia
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abrookebrown24 ()
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 10:15 pm    Post subject: Faux Fur hunting Reply with quote

Thanks ladies for the encouragement!
I'm planning on adding more hoops once I get the dress completed so I know where I need them to get the right shape. Not quite sure how many I'll end up putting in yet. That's a good pointer, so I'll definitely be certain to reinforce the bottom.

I'm also looking at purchasing the fur for the trim. This is a bit tough to track down because the fur is brown, but looks nearly black in several pictures. In some of the photos it look a bit textured, so it's not really a straight brown color. Here's a few samples of fur, not sure if I love either one because they aren't quite dark enough.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152993744@N07/shares/q170J2

That's about it for now. I broke down and got a serger because of all the crazy red fibers everywhere. That means I'll be pausing progress for a bit to serge all my loose edges. Hooray!
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2019 4:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those are nice furs, but they aren't quite dark enough, I don't think. I would go for a deep chocolate brown.

If have no idea if the pile on this is long enough, but something in this color family might work: https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p212330_46695-chocolate-brown-low-pile-faux-fur

Etsy came up with some pretty good results too: https://www.etsy.com/search/craft-supplies-and-tools?q=dark+brown+faux+fur&explicit=1
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Darth Sunshine (Andrea)
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2019 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good!

Hobby Lobby has a fur that's pretty darn close to screen accurate (dark roots, lighter brown tips). Problem is it's got a lighter section between the two. Still looks real good, especially when you take a step back.



I've been toying with the idea of spray-dyeing it or something to darken that section.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2019 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Progress is looking good. Very Happy

I feel you on the fur. The good thing is that you can dye fur, so if the brown is not dark enough you can dye it darker.
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abrookebrown24 ()
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 12:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the pointers on the fur. I've never dyed fabrics, so I'd be pretty nervous to dye fur! Etsy is seriously the best for costume resources. I'll keep looking. I'm liking this listing from Etsy.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/620798131/eden-dark-brown-2-inch-long-pile-soft?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=dark+brown+faux+fur&ref=sr_gallery-1-2&organic_search_click=1

Okay, so I finished my dress. However, it turns out that a small change over 24 sections makes quite the difference... I changed the pattern slightly because the mock-up was a little baggy in some places. However, now I'm concerned that it's too tight. It fits fairly comfortably, and I haven't put the zipper in yet. I'm a little worried it's too form fitting around my legs. Thoughts?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152993744@N07/shares/3y5e23

I went more functional, and added some pockets, but they're pulling open a little, so I'm going to let some of my seams out a bit to prevent that. I also added two more hoops to my underskirt to see if that would help with the shape. Definitely need a few more. Also, I'm slowly mocking up the sleeve pattern, and the blue in this picture is just to get an idea.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/152993744@N07/507L49

Honestly I'm tempted to remake because I'm just not loving the shape. I'll focus on something else for a bit, then come back to it!

Here is a very messy draft of my outer sleeve pattern so far.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/152993744@N07/LDnZ8Y
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nicely done! I don't think it hugs the legs too badly to be a hurdle for approval, but in the end, it's what makes you happy. So if you feel like you want to to be fitted better, let that guide you.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, it does look like you've got a bit of a fish tail shape going on now. Neutral
I think it's better to have it a bit loose and baggy rather than it being too tight.

Nice find on the fur. Smile
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abrookebrown24 ()
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2019 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay I decided to go ahead and remake the dress with a slightly different pattern. A little frustrating to need to back-track, but I'm much more pleased with this result. I also finished putting together the outer sleeves using the same method as the dress.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152993744@N07/shares/1E028V

I ended up tracking down a fur color I liked at Hobby Lobby, but I failed to take a very good picture of it. I've started attaching it to the outer sleeves, and from what I can tell on the pictures, the fur actually goes up the sleeve, and isn't just a liner.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152993744@N07/shares/L874SG

Meanwhile I've been making slow progress on the headpiece. I had the base for the headpiece designed by Diaxus Goff, and 3D printed by Caliston Armory here in Utah. I experimented with gold foil which looks lovely, but I kinda hate because it's so delicate. I also constructed a base for the hair roll. I used a pool noodle and heat gun to bend to the correct shape, hot-glued layers of egg-crate foam, and covered the whole thing with brown flannel. I happened across a big box of hair extensions which I purchased from a movie set close-out, and I've started experimenting with wrapping around the foam base. I'm still trying to work out how to attach it to the base, but one thing at a time. Smile
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2019 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your progress is looking good. Smile

And yes, gold foil is a delicate thing. Regular golden paint would likely be easier to work with.

I hope you get things how you want them this time around; it's truly annoying when you have to start over on a part, because it didn't come out as hoped. Confused
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abrookebrown24 ()
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 1:18 am    Post subject: Post Celebration Reply with quote

It's been a while since I've updated this thread. Not to worry, I've still be working hard on Padme, but I wasn't feeling the Con crunch, so I failed to complete her for Star Wars Celebration. Despite that, I still had an incredible time in Chicago, and I'm already looking forward to Anaheim next year!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152993744@N07/shares/2nPx1b

I've made lots of progress since last posting. I completed the gown, sewed fur around the base, and attached all three sleeve layers. The inner sleeve was completed from the shinier satin material, and goes approximately to my thumb. The middle sleeve is of the bengaline, and I'm still working to attach fur. Honestly you don't see the middle sleeves much, so I'm just guessing as to how wide to make the fur band.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152993744@N07/shares/7e3eC7

I started patterning the collars out based on a grid pattern laid over Natalie's gown. After thinking about getting in and out of the dress, I decided that I'd make the collars/tabbards separate from the gown. I'm looking at the top collar, and it appears to extend several inches beyond the shoulder so I constructed the top collar with batting sandwiched between the satin material to give them that pointed appearance. The lower collar I've constructed a hood to drape below the top collar on the back. Once I get it all put together, I'll add a hidden zipper of some kind, and start hand-stitching the little silk thread details.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152993744@N07/shares/Qw4jw5

The golden tabbard details I had embroidered on by a local legion member at Uptown Embroidery here in Utah. I used digital files purchased on Etsy from CosplayEmbroidery. The files were great, and my friend Aubrey did a beautiful job embroidering my tabbards. If any ladies are interested in getting this done, I highly recommend her!
Anyway, I went ahead and outlined them in fur, and they're currently just sitting on my table waiting for me to finish the rest of the collars. Smile

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152993744@N07/shares/rXP03N

Okay that seems like a pretty good update. I'll post more with my headpiece progress.
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abrookebrown24 ()
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 1:50 am    Post subject: Headpiece updates Reply with quote

Okay, I'm afraid the headpiece has been the bane of this costume for me. Luckily I had a really good base to work from. I used my 3D printed models, and basically had to just paint, and add detail work. (Seriously, Calliston Armory will print you one of these if you're interested.)

Anyway. I decided the gold foil was too delicate, so I sanded it off, and spray-painted that bad boy gold. I purchased red Venice lace on Etsy from Lace Lindsay, and used that to cover the swords and the middle strip on the cap. I used gold diamond mesh wrap for the gold jeweled details. I glued the diamond mesh to cardstock, spray painted it all gold, and added it over the red lace. I was at a bit of a loss on the gold detailing on the earpiece "eggs" and the sides of the cap. I've seen it done several different ways, none of them exactly screen accurate. However, I found this really cool textured gold sticker thing in the scrapbooking section, and thought it looked pretty cool, and it had the right effect. I also ordered a 25mm red jewel which I mounted on a piece of thin thermoplastic that I shaped, and I actually found a use for my gold foil. Wink

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152993744@N07/shares/29D3d0

As far as the base of the headpiece goes, I'm pretty much done except the bead topper. I purchased the Cinnabar bead on Etsy from Yumi Sadamoto, which was perfect. I'm just working to construct the rest of it.

The real challenge was the dreaded hair roll. I went through lots of iterations involving lots of tangled brown hair. The base was constructed from pool noodle, egg crate foam, wrapped in brown flannel. I took several brown hair extensions, sectioned them off into manageable ponytails, and stitched the hair clip end directly to the flannel. I went to town with hot glue (which looking back may not have been the best idea). I laid the hair down over the flannel with hot glue, and glued the ends down with brown bias tape. The bias tape isn't super pretty, but it should be hidden by my head, and I'll probably remove a good amount of it. I think I'll go over it with either clear glue, or even clear acrylic or sealer. Not sure yet. I'm still in the process of experimenting. I sewed velcro onto the center of the hair roll, which corresponds with the top of the headpiece. Anyway, it's been a bit of a nightmare, but I'm finally seeing the light on it, and it actually looks really cool when I put it all together.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152993744@N07/shares/X95125

That's pretty much where I've got to. I ordered some large disc magnets which I plan to attach to the hair roll and headpiece to help hold it in place. So we'll see how this goes!


Last edited by abrookebrown24 () on Tue Jun 11, 2019 5:08 pm; edited 2 times in total
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2019 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is all looking fantastic! You are really going to town with all of the details here.
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