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Jedi Master's Robe Tutorial, by EeanLedgor
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bluelou6 ()



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you, that makes perfect sense (in the light of day and without absorbing hours of information off of the internet so my brain went to mush)

Regarding the measurements; is there a reason 19 inches was chosen for the red dotted box? Your measurements are good for my robe but I am also making one for my wife who is shorter than me and that measurement is key to establishing many of the robes final measurements.


EeanLedgor wrote:
Thank you for your question!

I must confess that I’m not sure what you’re asking...but I’ll offer some insight:

The wool I used was about 58” wide. There is about 4 yards of fabric, folded over lengthwise where the fold is perpendicular to the salvage. The folded fabric is now about 2 yards long and the fold is at the shoulder of the robe.

The measurement at the shoulder was about 55”, and the length is about 69”. This gives you half the robe. You cut two pieces and sew them together along the back seam to join the bulk of yheyrobe.

Remember these measurements are for me. Depending on your size, your measurements might be different.

I hope this helps. If not, please let me know.


bluelou6 wrote:
Another excellent tutorial!

I have a question about the top fold. How were you able to get a 69 inch measurement without a seem? The widest fabric i can find is 58 inches.
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EeanLedgor ()
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad that my last insight helped.

As for the 19" number? Quite honestly, it's been so long that I forget how I came up with that particular measurement. I know there was some method to my madness, but it escapes me now. However...

I put deep shoulder tucks in my Jedi Master's robes. The depth of the tucks are around 4.5"-5", and the under fold area (where you do the actual stitching to hold the tuck in place) is rather close to the seam that connects the hood to the main body of the robe (I hope that makes sense). There's a few things to consider: (1) I allow for a 1" seam allowance on the robe. This gives enough material to do the fold-over-hide-the-seam technique, (2) the measurement from the back of my neck to where I want the edge of the shoulder tuck to be is around 11"-12", (3) adding 4"-5" for the tuck, then another 4"-5" of sleeve material to get back to the edge of the tuck...and you end up with...19"-20" (ish).

The robes (for the prequel films) are very full, so I didn't mind erroring on the large side of things.

Regardless, since I developed this pattern, I have moved that point at 19" to about 17.5". While I still wear my original robe, I thought the underarm area was a bit full and all subsequent robes I've made (having moved this point) have a...how to say?...narrower arm pit area (as compared to the original design, pictured in this tutorial).

If a robe was being made for someone under about 5'8", I'd probably move that 19" point to around 15" or 16". If someone was a husky Jedi (more than about 6'3" and 275 pounds) I'd make the sleeves and robe longer and maybe move that 19" point to 21".

In either case, you simply measure (I'll use) 17.5" from the "top" and from the "inside" to establish a new under arm point. Leave the bottom of the robe and the bottom of the sleeve where they are and redraw the lines, rounding it over at the arm pit area.

Again....I hope this helps. As always, if you need to know more or have questions, please ask Wink




bluelou6 wrote:
Thank you, that makes perfect sense (in the light of day and without absorbing hours of information off of the internet so my brain went to mush)

Regarding the measurements; is there a reason 19 inches was chosen for the red dotted box? Your measurements are good for my robe but I am also making one for my wife who is shorter than me and that measurement is key to establishing many of the robes final measurements.

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Maker of costume props and costumes for Rebel Legion and 501st members.
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barrasargtlin ()



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EeanLedgor wrote:
If a robe was being made for someone under about 5'8", I'd probably move that 19" point to around 15" or 16". If someone was a husky Jedi (more than about 6'3" and 275 pounds) I'd make the sleeves and robe longer and maybe move that 19" point to 21".


Long time lurker, first time poster... I am finally gaining momentum and making my own robe from your tutorial (thanks so much!). I just wanted to say that at 5'3", your estimate of 16" box is pretty spot on and I came to the same estimate for my pattern independently and in a similarly geometric way. I'll be happy to show off my progress on the mock up and the final product soon!
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EeanLedgor ()
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

barrasargtlin wrote:
Long time lurker, first time poster... I am finally gaining momentum and making my own robe from your tutorial (thanks so much!). I just wanted to say that at 5'3", your estimate of 16" box is pretty spot on and I came to the same estimate for my pattern independently and in a similarly geometric way. I'll be happy to show off my progress on the mock up and the final product soon!


WOW, thanks for the input! Glad everything worked out. I'm so happy folks are getting use out of this tutorial...even after many years.
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DropBear ()



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes we are still getting mileage out of the tutorial thank you for still updating it and responding.

I have a question that I can't seem to fathom and it concerns the hood, The bit where you say it's "straight forward" Smile

Before I cut out the hood I note that the collar will be 36 inches but the neck part of the hood is 25 inches (on the pattern), giving a total length of 50 inches. Even with hems this leaves a lot of material on the hood that doesn't seem to match with the collar. Am I missing something?

And the hem on the front of the hood how wide do you recommend this to be?

Thanks
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EeanLedgor ()
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 1:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DropBear wrote:
...Before I cut out the hood I note that the collar will be 36 inches but the neck part of the hood is 25 inches (on the pattern), giving a total length of 50 inches. Even with hems this leaves a lot of material on the hood that doesn't seem to match with the collar. Am I missing something?

And the hem on the front of the hood how wide do you recommend this to be?

Thanks


It's a long tutorial, so it's easy to overlook things. Not quite half way down on the first post you'll see where I gathered the main body of the robe at the next AND also gathered the hood so that the hood length and the neck hole end up the same when you sew the hood onto the main body of the robe. Just head back and look over that again. I'm sure it'll make sense.

As for the hem, so me (in the films) it seems the width of the hem around the front opening (and hood) is about 1.5" I'm sure some will argue this point, but in the end it's a matter of preference. I fold over 1/2", iron it, then fold that over 1-1.5" (so the raw edge is hidden inside the hem), then hand stitch way...unless you don't mind there being a visible stitch, then use the machine. Same goes for the bottom hem.

Hope this helps!
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DropBear ()



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 2:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AS ever helpful (and patient) with the response. Potentially this will result in needing to sew through 6 layers of fabric... The machine may not like that, may have to resort to hand stitching.

Do visible seams impact outfit approvals? Not sure I'll go down that path but just in case (I have a habit of getting carried away).

Thank you.
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EeanLedgor ()
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 2:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DropBear wrote:
AS ever helpful (and patient) with the response. Potentially this will result in needing to sew through 6 layers of fabric... The machine may not like that, may have to resort to hand stitching.

Do visible seams impact outfit approvals? Not sure I'll go down that path but just in case (I have a habit of getting carried away).

Thank you.


Yes, if you don't have a heavy duty machine, it might not like you very much. But you can "help" the fabric advance through the presser foot. The OWK robe you see me wear in my pics was done with a regular machine. It moaned, but survived.

And, your guess is as soon as mine with what the LCJs might or might not approve these days. My guess would be that as long as you're not doing a face character, surely a hem stitch wouldn't keep one from being approved. In my opinion, it shouldn't keep a face character from being approved either, but...who am I to judge (realizing that my past service as an LCJ and as LMO as well as having helped hundreds, if not thousands, make their Jedi costume...has no bearing on anything today's LCJs might say)?
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DropBear ()



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Machine coped but that might be because the fabric is a bit lighter than a full wool would be (wool polyester blend).
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Jorius Valik (James Douthitt)
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently acquired a new robe, sewn by my sister in law and done using this tutorial. I debuted it at the TLJ premiere and it was outstanding. Thank you to EeanLedgor for this tutorial. For anyone interested, the fabric is a dark brown wool melton, 80/20 wool/poly blend. It has excellent weight to it and hangs beautifully.
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OddViking (Colin Adams)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 12:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just completed my new robe for my just-approved Jedi General using your fantastic tutorial ( and the print-ready patterns found here: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=82924

I used 100% wool, and wanted to give some feedback of a few things that I only caught by reading it several times through in the weeks before starting:

I nearly missed the addition of three inches to the long edges (two inches in the front, and three in the back). I think this might need to be highlighted. I mentioned in the pattern thread to add it to the pattern.

You have a nice 1" seam allowance that is included along most edges (in order to do your invisible seams), but this is not always obvious. Maybe adding a dashed line in your pattern to indicate this larger than usual seam allowance is already included?

For some reason, I didn't have nearly as much material to pleat on the robe as you did, but I just made the hood and robe match, so that worked fine. Possibly call out something like "your measurements may vary, but make the two measurements match and it will work" (which it did).

I couldn't tell how you finished the hem in the sleeve. I did your hidden stitch thing, which I love now BTW, but it wasn't specified if you machine or hand stitched that.

Instead of doing the hidden stitch on the three super-long seams, I actually pinned it down and sewed a second machine stitch. It shows through to the outside, like the double seam on a pair of jeans, and I thought it was a good time saving corner to cut on that step. People who may be daunted by the time of hand finishing all three long seams may want to know they can still complete it other ways. It gets really tricky in the armpit area, but still worked well. I DO think the more invisible hand finishing is more important on the sleeve tucks, the hood/neck seam, and the sleeves, as those will be seen more and not hidden in the drape.

All told, it took me a little over 8.5 yards of fabric, and 17 hours to complete. One to cut it out, and the rest to sew the robe. I added a saber blade sleeve inside the left seam.

It hangs beautifully, and I love it. Thanks for the great tutorial!

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