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Vera's Meadow Gown Build
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2018 2:20 am    Post subject: Vera's Meadow Gown Build Reply with quote



This year, I am determined to finish the Meadow Gown by Celebration 8 Chicago. I had previously started a thread 5 years ago that's all random research chatter so I decided to start fresh, but it's here: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43710&start=60

Now that I have 5 years more experience and have gotten the opportunity to study the real gown up close when the exhibit went to Ohio, I now have a pretty solid plan of attack. I've purchased about 18 yards of white crinkle silk chiffon, the top layer is heavier, 10mm crinkle silk from ThaiSilks (I don't think they carry it anymore), the underlayer is a thinner, 8mm crinkle silk from ThaiSilks. Before I went to the exhibit, I dyed several samples so I had something to compare to the real thing, and was pleasantly surprised that I actually got a perfect match! Now I just hope it's the same when I scale it to full yardage.



I bought a kiddie pool and am going to dye the yardage on Saturday. I also have dome dye mixed up in spray bottles to do some samples for the splotchy underlayer. I have to try and get these dyed before it gets too cold out!

Here are the best of the pictures I got at the exhibit.






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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837


Last edited by Leia (Vera Campbell) on Sat Jan 05, 2019 5:37 am; edited 1 time in total
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LeiaAurora ()
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2018 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't to see what you do with this!
Side note. Kiddie pool? I had never thought to dye fabric in a kiddie pool but that is genius. Do you still use the boiling water or wait for it to cool before putting the fabric in? I have about 6 yards of fabric just waiting to be dyed and haven't had the right outlet to do so. This may be it! lol
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In progress/submitted: Vice Admiral Holdo, Clone Wars Padme Amidala, Clone Cadet
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2018 2:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I usually dye in a large storage tub, but with the yardage I've got, I wanted it to have plenty of room to spread out! They were super cheap at the end of summer, too.

Even though I'm dyeing silk, I'm using the fiber reactive Procion dye so I don't have to heat it! I have yet to find a way to keep that much water up to temperature anyway Confused
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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2018 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent photographs, Vera! Very Happy May the RLGS use them? I think they could be very helpful to others making this costume.

I have complete faith in your ability to make this costume come alive.
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2018 4:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Absolutely, Lora!

In fact, I'm also going to be writing a tutorial shortly on a separate post on how to make the calculations for circle skirts.


-------------------------

The current thing that's driving me nuts:



I have been to every store that carries any kind of hand embroidery thread trying to match a color. The original gown chain stitching was done on a chain stitch machine, so I'm thinking they used a spooled thread but I can't find any heavy enough that have any decent color options, so I'm looking at hand embroidery thread. I have maybe a dozen different kinds I picked up or ordered online. The closest one I found was a silk thread that is called a light green, which has a very strong yellow base to it. I took pictures of my stitch samples in all kinds of different lighting, and every example I could find that I matched the fabric to, the stitching was close as well. The only thing missing is the sheen that the thread used has. I'm guessing it's a rayon. I'm trying to track down the identical color in a rayon hand embroidery thread, but if this order doesn't match any better, I'm going with the silk thread.
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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck on the hunt. Smile But I think this will work out beautifully no matter what.
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2018 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have all of my fabrics dyed up! It was a mad scramble to get everything dyed before Winter hit since I had to do it all outside.

Here's my color, which I matched at the exhibit. It's a bit in the "ochre" range.



I used Fiber Reactive dyes from Dharma Trading company for this. I like to use the tub dye method for paler colors, and there's more color variations in fiber reactive dyes.

Now, my brilliant idea of using a kiddie pool? BAD IDEA, don't do it! I had my fabric in the pool and realized that it was so spread thin that the water wasn't covering the fabric all the way. I ended up putting it in a tub like I normally do and having to spoon the dye out of the pool and into the tub. I didn't move my fabric around while I did this, so I have a bit of color unevenness, it's subtle so I'm hoping between all the skirt folds and stitching, it's not noticeable.



A tip for this crinkle chiffon fabric. You have to pre-wash the fabric is synthrapol before dyeing, which you can get from Dharma or sometimes at quilt stores. It says to wash in hot, but I'd wash it in warm. I was really worried I ruined all my silk when it shrank up on me! However, it does this even after washing in cold water. Don't let that freak you out! I was able to clip it while damp to a clothesline in my basement. The weight of the fabric and me tugging along the selvage allowed me to relax the crinkle and I even gained a few inches of width. You don't want the crinkle too tight or it'll be harder to hoop up for embroidery.



I have the splotchy underlayer dyed too, I'll post about it in a bit. I'm having a hard time getting my camera to capture the color!
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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2018 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for letting us know the kid pool didn't work. Sticking to tubs. Wink

And that is quite a large amount of fabric!
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 1:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A bit about the splotchy under layer... I had a really hard time getting my camera to pick up the colors, it's so pale.

The original:

There's a few methods I considered for this, airbrushing is one. I thought I'd try spray dyeing. I used fiber reactive dye from Dharma Trading for this. When dyeing the fabric, you use a fixative called Soda Ash in the dye bath. Since the dye is being sprayed on, you have to soak the fabric in a soda ash bath for 5-10 minutes before spraying on the dye. (I think I was told 1/2 cup per gallon of water, I'll look up my notes and confirm later)

I cut up my fabric into 4 separate pieces, 3 for the skirt, 1 for the bodice and took it a piece at a time. I strung a double clothesline in the backyard, parallel to each other. I wanted the fabric to hang flat over the ground because if it hangs vertically, the wet dye could run down the fabric and cause streaks, and we want it to be splotchy and spread, but not run.



I soaked the fabric in the solution and wrung it out as best I could so it was as dry as possible to accept the dye. I had my dye mixed up in two spray bottles. I used "Bubblegum" and "Melted Peep (seasonal color)", but they were rather pale so some of the darker pinks and yellows would probably be fine. I strung the fabric between the two lines and started by spraying random pink splotches, and filling in with yellow. If you spray too much, it'll get overly wet and run. I definitely recommend doing some tests.
[url=http://www.rebelshaven.com/images/costumes/meadow/fabric006.jpg]
[/url]

For the dye to take using this method, it has to stay wet and sit on the fabric for 8-12 hours. I put mine on a roll, wrapped in plastic dropcloth so the layers didn't touch each other and stayed wet.



After I took the fabric off the roll, I was told by Dharma to put in in a vinegar bath. Silk doesn't really like the soda ash mix, it can cause some silks to break down (Again, do a sample), so soaking in a vinegar bath for 15 minutes neutralizes the soda ash. I think it's also 1/2 cup per gallon of water. Once I rinsed out the fabric, I washed it with synthrapol and air dried it. Like the yellow layer, I had to hang dry it and tug it back out to size.

Here's the best picture I could get of the color.


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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is quite the process. But good to see it worked. Smile
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 3:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skirt embroidery started! I should know by the time I get the first skirt panel done whether I can get this finished by Celebration or not.


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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 2:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Went bead shopping today. I thiiiink I'm going to go with the 8, but I might fill in a few flowers and attach few and see how they look from a distance, make sure they're not *too* noticeable. I have some more yellow ones in the same size.


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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a good plan. Smile
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to try not to spam too many embroidery pics (even though only Lora is reading this thread Laughing ), just milestones...

Finished (except for the flower fills) the center front of one skirt panel...


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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, I'm lurking too. Leia Buns

This is turning out gorgeous. That looks like such a luscious fabric to be working with. How long did that panel take you, all together?
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Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

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