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"Solo" Han Shirt Tutorial

 
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yadsmood ()
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 7:08 pm    Post subject: "Solo" Han Shirt Tutorial Reply with quote

"Solo" Han Shirt Tutorial

Here is a tutorial on how I patterned and constructed my "Solo" Han Shirt. Note: I haven't been approved yet, so I don't know this is the "right" way but at least may help you figure out a way of making this shirt. Here is what I have made:



Another disclaimer: I started my build making this shirt:



And then decided to make the more common one seen here:



I believe construction-wise they are the same but are made out of either different fabrics or at least differently dyed fabrics. In any case, onto the tutorial...

Supplies needed:

    -Several yards of muslin or some other cheap, light wight fabric
    - Thread
    - Sewing machine
    - A long sleeve shirt pattern
    - A marker
    - Pins
    - Scissors
    - Pattern paper
    - A manequin, dressform, or a friend
    - Fabric for the final piece (I used some linen I found locally)


Instructions

I started by taking a generic long sleeve t-shirt pattern and made it out of muslin. I then put it on my duct-tape manequin. If you don't have one or a dress form, I really suggest you make one because they are sooo cheap and sooo useful. If you still don't have one, get a friend and put on the muslin.

Draw on the muslin the shape of what I call the double breasted part (i.e. the part where it opens up in the front). You could just draw half if you want because I believe it is symmetrical. The shape is a rectangle with a rounded top that almost reached the collar. Sorry I don't have pictures of this part.

Pull it off the manequin when you are happy. Then take out your trusty seam wripper and rip all the seams of the shirt. When you get to the front part, cut out the double breasted part. Transfer all the pieces to pattern paper. When you are done you should end up with something that looks close to this:



Please ignore the collar pattern at the top right, we'll get to that in a moment. If you look at the front and back patterns (on the left) I did them as halves so you can either cut them on the fold or copy twice. It is also the same for the double breasted piece.

Next, trace all your pattern onto muslin leaving a one inch seam allowance. It can be less than then that. I was just lazy and trimmed off any extra later. Make sure you mark where the seam allowance starts/ends. This will be super important for later steps. Also, make sure that you trace four of the double breast pieces. Cut all the pieces out, and you should have something like the following. Note: I didn't take pictures of this part, but I did when I cut out the final fabric. Here they are:





Note: Two of the above breast pieces should be black in the final version. I ended up seam deconstructing the front and redying them later.

We will start with constructing the front. First, take the double breast pieces, and pair them off. Pin each of the pairs on the right sides and sew that side along the seam allowance. Press the seams, and cut some of the extra seam allowance.




The next part is long and tedious but makes the shirt what it is. Its also hard to document so I am just going to show you the end product.

Flip the breast piece pairs right side out and pin the bottoms of each. Then take an iron and using our markings of the seam allowance as a guide start folding and ironing all the edges to what will be the inside of each breast piece pair. This does not include the bottom. At the end each of the breast piece pairs should look something like this:



Next, get the front shirt piece and cut diagonal lines splitting the seam allowance into the side and the bottom as show below:



This will allow you to fold back the bottom:



Put the breast pieces on top of one another, with the top breast pair having their sewn seam on the left and bottom pairs sewn seam on the right. Then pin them along the bottom of the piece you just folded down. It should look something like this:



You can then grab it by the bottom and lay it like this:



Then sew along the bottom, trim to half an inch, and serge the bottom (or zig-zag stitch if, like me, you don't have a serger).



This is the tricky part. Take the top double breast piece, and the right side of the front of the shirt and fold them down out of the way. Then put the left side of the shirt in between the layers of the bottom breast piece, matching the seam lines to the edge of the folded breast piece. Pin them together.




Flip the entire thing over, and do the same for the other side.



Sew along the edges you just pinned for each of the sides as close as you can to the edge without going over. You should end up something like this:



Then pin the front to the back on the left hand side only going about half way up. This should allow for the iconic fold over. Do this on both the front and the back.

You are finally done with the front of the shirt!!! Most of the rest is sewing up a regular shirt. Put the front and the back of the shirt together, and sew up the sides.



Because you are working with muslin, you should end up with something like this (minus the collar).



For the collar, I cut out a strip of muslin 4.5 in x 20 in, traced a pattern from it, pinned it on the manequin to make sure it looked fine, cut off the excess, and sewed it on.

For my muslin test version of the shirt, I stopped there. No point in attaching sleeves if you don't have to. Since you now knew you have something that fits, and works well, just repeat all the steps with the actual fabric, this time attaching the sleeves and hemming all the edges.

Note, you could just skip doing the muslin test version, but I have found that I mess up a lot, and end up wasting a lot of expensive fabric. While this way takes time, I think its worth it.

Again, here is the final version:



Good luck!
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isik.m ()
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 4:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great. I was looking for some Lando designs and I think this could be similar.
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kman ()
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Outstanding! I'm going to have to try to make one of these, myself. Great job on the write-up!
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CaptainoftheFalcon ()



Joined: 10 Nov 2015
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Location: Milwaukee, WI
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 12:00 am    Post subject: Han Shirt Reply with quote

As others have said, thank you for putting this all together. I think I might be able to pull this off with the help of a friend of mine by following your tutorial.
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