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Jedi Alternative Robe Tutorial

 
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Keyaroscuro ()
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 12:25 am    Post subject: Jedi Alternative Robe Tutorial Reply with quote



Hey, ya'll! I've had some questions about the robe for my custom Jedi, so I wrote up a tutorial, which you can also find on Imgur.

My custom Jediís robe is based on the alternative robe design listed under the Rebel Legion costume requirements for custom Jedi:

Quote:
A hooded cape with side splits similar in construction [to] that worn by Anakin in Attack of the Clones, is permitted.


If you go under Anakinís Rebel Legion costume requirements for his Attack of the Clones outfit, this is what it says:

Quote:
Hooded Jedi Masterís Robe
Dark brown, wide, non-lined, hooded cloak with tabbard
Wool fabric preferred
Front of robe and hood are short hemmed (approximately 1 inch)
Hood is gathered around the neck


So itís a hooded cloak with tabards. OK. Easy enough. Except itís Star Wars, so actually itís crazy complicated if youíre trying to do a screen accurate version. But thatís OK, because for custom Jedi, it just has to be similar! So keep in mind that I wasnít bound and determined in being 100% screen accurate, so my tutorial will be a simplified, non screen accurate version of Anakinís cloak.

INSPIRATION

After a whole lot of photo and movie research and a lot of sifting through the Rebel Legion forums for tutorials, I figured out that one, there are really crappy and/or sparse references for something that is actually kind of complicated, and two, thereís a way to make a cloak similar to Anakinís in a reasonably quick and easy amount of time. The two tutorials I used the most for inspiration are these ones:

Quote:
Jedi Masterís Robe Tutorial
This tutorial is actually for a standard, sleeved Jedi robe. However, I used the measurements of the main body of the robe without the sleeves to figure out the shape and measurements for the body of the cloak. You can check it out to figure out your measurements if my description doesn't make sense when we get to that point.


Quote:
Anakin AOTC's Robe/Cloak
The pictures are broken on this tutorial, but here is the Photobucket. This is a very indepth tutorial describing how to make a screen-accurate version of Anakinís cloak from Attack of the Clones. There are a few more parts to her tutorial, but the basic idea and some crucial components are the same in mine.


Last off, I'm not a professional seamstress. I'm sure people who understand bias and fabric better than I do will cringe at some of the things I'm doing, but hey, it still looks stunning when it's done!



FABRIC

For fabric, I used black amaretto linen. Everything is single layered except the tabbards, which are reinforced with an extra layer of fabric to help balance the weight, and it came out to be roughly six to seven yards for me. Depending on your body measurements, desired style, and fabric, youíll want two to three yards for your tabbards and hood, and about four to five continuous yards for the body of the cloak. The broader your shoulders and body, the larger your tabbards and the top of the cloak will be, so the more fabric you will need.

MEASUREMENTS

My body measurements are 67 inches (five feet seven inches) and about 160 pounds, and my fabric measured sixty inches wide. I used about six of the seven yards I bought.

With my body measurements in mind, here's a rundown of my measurements for the different pieces (there will be five in total):

Hood (one piece) -- 30 inches by 60 inches
Cloak (two pieces) -- 16 inches by 80 inches
Tabbards (two pieces) -- 18 inches by 60 inches (for tabbards that are six inches wide and fall about two inches above the foot)

These measurements are with a 1/4 inch hem allowance.

I will explain how I got the measurements as we get to each point. But for the purposes of this tutorial, I will be referring to my personal measurements above, although the photos will show the process of a slightly wider robe I made for a friend.


Last edited by Keyaroscuro () on Tue Nov 07, 2017 6:17 pm; edited 12 times in total
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Keyaroscuro ()
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



TABBARDS

I cut along the edge, so since my fabric is 60 inches wide, my tabbards are about 60 inches long. This leaves about three inches from the floor to the bottom of my tabbards, so I'm not kicking or tripping over them.

If you need to go longer for taller people, you can either cut along the length of the fabric, or I add an extra "wedge" piece to connect the two together, since that part is mostly hidden by the hood and would just add two extra seams in the collar.



TABBARDS (measure and cut)

First, letís cut the tabbards, since it will serve as your base to connect everything else.

You will sew and cut TWO of these pieces.

My tabbards are six inches wide to match my Jedi's regular green tabbards. For people with broader shoulders, you'll obviously want to go wider to seven or even eight inches. You don't have to do this part, but I fold the fabric three times to add more weight, which means that six inches width times three folds is 18 inches.

Alternatively, you could just get some interfacing and interface the tabbards instead. If you do this, then the measurements would be six inches width times two folds, so 12 inches.

You want some good weight on the tabbards to help hold the cloak in place, because there will be a whole lot more fabric on the back with the hood and the body of the cloak.



TABBARDS (sew)

Pin and sew a straight stitch down both long sides and along one of the short sides.



TABBARDS (add a notch)

Now I did this wrong in the pictures, so ignore that, but here's what you're going to do next.

We need to add a notch in the tabbards so that it will drape better around the neck and the front.

Pin the two unsewn edges of the tabbard together. Drape it on your dressform or someone with a very similar body type to you (or yourself) with the connecting seam dead center, and make one mark on each side about above where your shoulder blades are.

For me, that was about five inches one each side.

If you need to make the tabbards longer, and you want to cut along the width of the fabric, this is where you're going to add the wedge of fabric to add length. You would just take your fabric and cut it into the shape of the notch we're cutting here.



TABBARDS (add a notch)

Then measure up at an angle about two inches to make a shape like this.



TABBARDS (cut and sew)

Then cut it out and sew the notch's edge.

Now turn your tabbards out (reach in there and pull them inverted through the unsewn short edge). Then sew the two tabbards together with a straight stitch. This seam will be hidden, but still finish it accordingly.

And in the end, this is what the notch and the connected tabbards will look like!

Now, you have an option here. On my final piece, I decided that the triple folded tabbard was too bulky looking, so I top-stitched all along the edges. If you're going to do a top-stitch on the edges, how is the best time to do it.

SEAM FINISHING

You can do that by using a serger OR do a zigzag stitch that goes from the straight stitch to the edge of the fabric; that will help keep it from fraying. You will do this to ALL your seams! Linen frays like crazy, so you must finish your seams, or you'll be shedding and fraying everywhere.



HOOD (measure and cut)

Now it's time for the hood!

My hood is 30 inches by 60 inches. I cut it on the fold, so it's a big 30 inch by 30 inch square folded once. I don't think you'll have to adjust this measurement much unless you're a lot smaller than I am.

The top of the hood is the fold. Pin along one side, and that will be your back. Draw a little curve where the pinned back meets the folded top.



HOOD (sew)

Then just sew up that pinned side and along your markings. Cut off that tiny corner, and finish the seam with the zigzag stitch or serger.



HOOD (hem)

Turn the hood right side out. You'll want to hem the front of the hood, which is the edge that will go over your face.

Now, this part is going to be really confusing, and I'm sorry. You are now going to hem the bottom aka neck portion of the hood. But you will do the hem in the opposite direction of the front/face hem. Yep, opposite! So you'll actually be folding the hem out instead of in. It will look weird for now, but it will make sense later. See below how I do my hems.



HEM (part 1)

You can do a hidden hem, but I did a small standard hem. This is how I did ALL my hems, so whenever I mention hemming, this is what I'm talking about. Fold it once about 1/4 of an inch and sew with a straight stitch.



HEM (part 2)

Then fold it again about 1/4 inch or just enough to make a clean hem and sew again with a straight stitch. You could also just fold them twice to start, press, and do a single straight stitch, but that's up to you.


Last edited by Keyaroscuro () on Mon Nov 06, 2017 12:40 am; edited 2 times in total
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Keyaroscuro ()
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



CONNECT TABBARDS TO HOOD

And this is what those steps looks like in the end, except unlike the photo the hood's back seam would be facing up, and the hood's neck seam would be facing down.

Notice how the middle of the hood is in the middle of the tabbard and then tapers down to the edge of the hood. This is important!



CONNECT TABBARDS TO HOOD

OK, here's a potentially confusing part, mostly because I sewed the hood on wrong, so don't follow the hood seams in the pictures!

The edge of the hood falls about in line with your collarbone when the tabbard is draped around your neck. This lets the hood drape over your shoulders like in the reference photos. So drape the tabbard around your neck as you would like it to fall. With the center seam of your tabbards marking the middle of your back and the notch facing down, make one mark on each side where the edge of the hood will be about lined up with your collarbone.

Then on the floor or cutting table, lay your tabbards flat so the seam is facing up towards you and the notch is facing away from you.

Lay your hood with the back seam facing up towards you (not down like in the picture!) Line up that back seam line with the connecting seam line on the tabbards, so both seams are facing up towards you. This will be in about the middle of the tabbard, NOT the edge! Pin.



CONNECT TABBARDS TO HOOD

Then pin the edge of the hood to about half an inch to an inch above the edge of the tabbards where your edge marks are.



PLEAT THE HOOD

Pin down the hood in pleated folds.

I'm sure there are some maths that can go on here, but I basically just did it by look and feel. I am a Jedi, after all.



PLEAT THE HOOD

Pleat the other side, then take that sucker and sew it with a straight stitch following the hem on the bottom/neck hem of the hood.

Again, notice how it tapers from the middle to the edge!

And that's the hood connected to the tabbards!



CLOAK

Now onto the cloak body.

You're going to cut two pieces of this. As a reminder, my measurements are 16 inches by 80 inches, cut along the width of my fabric. The 16 inches are the neck, and the 80 inches are the bottom. The length is the width of my fabric, so 60 inches.

Fold your fabric over once until your bottom edge is 40 inches (unfolded, the edge would be 80 inches). Mark that measurement from the fold.

From the fold on one edge, measure eight inches (unfolded, that edge would be 16 inches). Mark that measurement from the fold.

Then draw a diagonal line from that bottom mark to the top mark. That's your cutting mark.

And...cut!

(To orient you to this picture, the fold is on the right, which means the neck of the cloak is on the bottom of the photo, and the bottom of the cloak is at the top of the photo. No particular reason why, that's just how I had it marked out on my floor.)



CLOAK

OK, after this, I stopped taking photos, because I accidentally measured something wrong and had a panicked moment of working around it, so my friend's cloak turned out a little different than mine, but we're going to continue describing my cloak, since it's easier. All that means is I'm just going to take photos of the final product and walk you through with detailed instructions on how to finish this adventure.

So right now you're going to sew the two cloak body pieces together along one edge with a straight stitch. When they are sewn together, you will have a piece that is 32 inches on the top, 60 inches on each side, and160 inches on the bottom. Finish the seam with the zigzag or serger.

Then you're going to hem both sides and the neck. Don't hem the bottom yet!



CLOAK

So to give you an idea of what these shapes should look like, you are basically cutting two isosceles trapezoids like the drawing on the top. You'll then sew them together like the V shape.



ATTACH CLOAK TO TABBARDS AND HOOD

My rescue cat Mercy wanted to show her support of this cloak.

So! Now to attach the cloak body to the tabbards and hood.

Lay the tabbards down with that back connecting seam facing up again and the notch this time facing towards you. This is the part hidden under the hood, so you're basically working beneath the hood.

Lay the cloak with the seam down.



ATTACH CLOAK TO TABBARDS AND HOOD

Once again, we're lining up seams. Line up the back seam of the cloak with the connecting seam of the tabbards and pin there.



ATTACH CLOAK TO TABBARDS AND HOOD

Now we're going to figure out where to pin the edge of the cloak. For me, it turned out to be two inches below the edge of the hood, so basically right above the breast line. Start there, then pin it on loosely, put it on, and check it out in the mirror. This placement will depend on how broad your shoulders are, how much of your arms you want covered, and how you want the sides to look as they drape.

Once you're happy with the look, pin the edges of the cloak to the tabbard so they're equal distance from the middle seam on both sides.

Then just like we did with the hood, we'll should have a little more fabric on the cloak than we have space on the tabbard. That means we're going to gather it a little, which helps with the overall drape of the cloak. After doing two cloaks, I found the best place to pin a gather was at the notch's bottom edge where the pin is in this photo. Depending on how much extra fabric you have between the edge and center seam, add a few more gathers where you would like.

Then take it and sew it like this along the edge of the tabbard to connect the top of the cloak to the edge of the tabbard.

(Don't stress too much on making this particular connection perfect if it turns out to be too confusing. No one will see the inside of the cloak, and most of this outer edge will be covered by the hood.)



COLLAR

So! Everything is attached! We just have some finishing left to do.

First, put it on. Remember how I had you sew the hood into the middle of the tabbard and then tapered it? That's because part of your tabbard serves as your collar. When your cloak is on, you can easily fold that top edge of the tabbard over to hide where the cloak is attached to the tabbard. And even if it doesn't cover it completely all the time, that's OK, because your hood has been nicely hemmed.



COLLAR

To help the collar stay where it should, you can fold and press with steam and an iron.

You can also sew it down. On my cloak, I did a small half inch double straight stitch right in the dead center along the bottom of the tabbard (you have to sew through a lot of layers of fabric, though, so be careful in case your sewing machine refuses to do so).

And that's the collar!



BOTTOM HEM

Now for the last step!

Because of how we cut the cloak, we're going to have to cut off some fabric on the bottom of the cloak. I prefer doing it this way instead of cutting the arc when I cut the pieces, because sometimes it's nice to have a longer front and sometimes it's nice to have a longer back depending on what you want. Also, when you attach the cloak body to the tabbard, depending on how you did it, you might have a longer back than front and vice versa.

So, put your cloak on your dressform or someone who is the same height and width as you or have someone help you with this part so you can wear it. Stand up straight and adjust the cloak so it's exactly how you want to wear it. Make sure you take into account any heels you might have on your Jedi's shoes!

Let the cloak fall until it hits the floor, and then make sure it does a 90 degree right angle, all the way around.

Cut off all that extra fabric so the hem falls wherever you want it, which for me was right above the floor because my finishing hems are so small. If you are doing large hems or a hidden hem, you may want to leave more fabric for the hem.

Hem that bottom edge.



When you're done, this is what the back and side should look like!
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great to see a guide for the Anakin, AOTC style cloak. Smile I hope others will find it useful.
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bluelou6 ()



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great tutorial, and a nice alternative to the standard robes. Any chance you have a pattern or build for your under tunic? That mandarin collar is nice!
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Keyaroscuro ()
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bluelou6 wrote:
Great tutorial, and a nice alternative to the standard robes. Any chance you have a pattern or build for your under tunic? That mandarin collar is nice!


Ahhh oh my, sorry! I didn't see this until now. I altered Simplicity pattern 2341.
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Psylix (Shamus Leong)
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there!

How do you keep the robe from falling off? Since there's no sleeves.

I'm currently getting one tailored.

Cheers
Shamus[/b]
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Keyaroscuro ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Psylix wrote:
Hi there!

How do you keep the robe from falling off? Since there's no sleeves.

I'm currently getting one tailored.

Cheers
Shamus[/b]


Hey! Sorry for the late response. I haven't really had any trouble with it falling off. The back of the cloak, aka the main body of the cloak, hooks over my shoulders, and then the tabbards are heavy enough on the front that I can even spin like a princess in a dress and it just flows around me and doesn't fly off.
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